The Hakko T12 stinger controller with TaoBao or Opus on how I was collecting a soldering station on the STM32 controller.
- Price: $44.82 set
Supplement from May 30, 2017.
In the sale appeared controllers PS with inverse (in the wrong direction) rotation of encoder
Options for dealing with this "inconvenience" at the end of the review.
Supplement from 06.03.2018
Thanks to the efforts of the Forum DmitryA and his article, we have a code generator (keygen) to activate the station after the firmware - alas no longer works, see below the new link.
Supplement from 19.04.2018
On Yandex and Google discs laid out all the firmware known to me for soldering stations, hairdryer and combo 2v1
Supplement from 05.06.2018
Cagen on Pyton and briefly how to use it
New link to online keygen code generator to activate station after firmware.
The entire set for the assembly of the soldering station (PS) was ordered on TaoVao, in different stores, references to components will be in the course of the text. Bought himself, without intermediaries, delivery to Ukraine carried out through the carrier Mist Express and its Chinese branch Meest China. Tariffs for delivery can be seen on the website meest.cn/. How much it cost delivery of components will not specify, as came a large order for several soldering stations in different sets and quantity.
So, what do we have to build PS.
Ps controller board.
The controller fee on STM32 was ordered in the store.
Taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $14.32.
Included in the PS board is attached: a two-length wire to connect the board to the power supply, a battery to recharge the clock while the PS is off, as well as a GX12-5P connector with a train and connector to connect to the PS board.
As you can see it v2.00
Basically, the fee is the same as in the Allary1980review. But there are a few differences:
- the quartz for the watch is proudly present in its rightful place.
The connector is a gap to connect the battery.
The controller power connector is located next to the soldering connector.
Four contactes for the controller firmware are divorced in another way and are closer to the indicator.
As we see the changes are not principled, just another option of drawing the board.
The board provides the following options:
1. The range of working temperatures is 150÷480 degrees Celsius.
2. Automatic compensation for cold share temperature in the range of 9÷99 degrees Celsius.
3. PID temperature regulation, stability of maintenance of 2 degrees Celsius.
4. For all types of HAKKO T12 (84 names), it is possible to perform an individual calibration of 3 points while maintaining PID parameters in energy-independent memory. There are also 6 custom settings. There is an opportunity to form your own list of used stings.
5. Automatic going into standby mode (you can set the time of 1÷60 minutes) with the sting temperature dropping to a set value.
6. Automatic sleep (soft shutdown) (you can set the time of 1÷60 minutes).
7. Heating speed: from room temperature to 300 degrees Celsius for most stings on average about 7 seconds (power source 24B).
8. Preservation of presets of the exposed temperature (5 values).
9. Protection from low power voltage: if the power voltage is lowered below the established value, the PS will signal a lack of power voltage, and when the power voltage is lowered below the psal threshold, it will be turned off. Very convenient when powering PS from the battery.
There are real-time clocks with a correction of course.
11. There is a screen keeper mode with a screensaver.
12. Interface language: simplified Chinese, English.
The heart of the board is the controller STM32F101CBT6,
Profile settings for different sting cartridges are stored in EEPROM ATMLH424, connection to the controller on the I2C bus.
The stabilized microcontroller and its strapping power provides IMS 2954am3-3.3, output voltage of 3.3 volts.
The power unit includes MOSFET in the plan case TPC8107, and its control transistor S9013W, .
An OLED display with a diagonal of 0.96 is used to display the information."
An encoder is used to control the controller.
Power supply.
Initially, he planned to use the "people's" power supply on 24B and 4A, as in the previous PS, under it and the hull was ordered. But in the vast expanse of TaoWao was to find a power supply designed specifically for this PS.
Claimed characteristics:
- output voltage 24B
- output current 3A
Power 72W
Size 83 x53mm.
The width is just inserted into the sleds of the hull.
It was eventually ordered.
Taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $6.27.
Power supply classic reverse-moving pulse based on SHIM controller OB2269C datasheet.
External inspection of BP left positive impressions - collected qualitatively, there are places with not washed flux, but they are few.
- NTC termistor at the entrance
An input jamming filter.
is a high-voltage diode bridge at 600B 1.5A
- a smoothing capacitor with a capacitor 68mkFx450V, which for a peak power of 72W, I think is enough.
The power transistor, presumably N-channel MOSFET, is located on the radiator, but the dense installation and abundance of the compound do not allow you to see its type.
- The pulse transformer in size is the same as in pulsed BP laptops.
- The output cascade is made (judging by the body and number of legs) on the diode assembly, installed on the radiator, both diodes are included in the parallel (dense installation and compound do not allow to determine the type, and no desire to plough).
- the voltage stabilisation chain is made according to the classical scheme using the IMC presumably TL431
and optopare
User Nimnul1979 when testing this power supply loaded it with 4A current, BP with such load coped, the stock is there. When the output is increased above 4A, the BP goes into defense.
Power cord connector
The power cord connector is combined with the input fuse and power switch. Bought here.
Taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $2.09.
I liked the performance: plastic casting without snous, high-quality contacts, do not bend.
Claimed parameters 250B 10A.
The electrically protective part is directly combined with the input connector.
Included fuse on 10A, I think that for PS it is too much, it will have to be replaced by 0.5A...
In the retractable part there is room for a spare fuse, which is very convenient.
Corps PS.
The hull of the PS was decided to order a metal. TaoWao offers a wide range of metal-profile cases. They differ mainly in size and color, as well as the options for the front and back.
A 150mm black-coloured dural profile was ordered for PS.
Taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $3.88.
Dimensions claimed by the manufacturer: 150 x88 x38mm.
Checked - matched.
This profile has guide for the boards, already sliced thread for fixing the front and back panels.
The halves of the case are connected to each other reliably, on one facet the profile "spike", on the other "groove" - everything fits just perfectly.
The case is not painted, but has an anodized coating.
is a milled plate made of durali.
Taking into account the delivery to china to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $10.15.
Included in the front panel is attached 4 fasteners under the hexagon, a handle on the encoder PS, as well as a spare plexiglass pasted with protective paper.
On the inside there are notcheds under the encoder, the indicator and the soldering connector.
Front size: 94 x42 x5mm.
The panel is slightly around the perimeter protruding beyond the case.
is a dural plate with milled holes under the power cord connector and fastening screws.
The panel is equipped with 4 fasteners under the cross screwdriver.
Taking into account the delivery in China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $1.78.
To stop the conversations about the size of the body and whether the "people's BP" will fit into it I post a photo
Folk BP 105mm - the thickness of the controller board with a screen and 18mm connectors - a pad of network wire with contacts 27mm q 150mm
installed a "people's BP" on top of his own - everything is easy to fit in.
If the case is shorter, there may be problems.
When the review was ready for publication, another version of the case was found in the expanses of TaoWao
All at once, the full set, the length of 120mm, just under the above BP.
Its price, taking into account delivery in China to the carrier's warehouse will be $14.49.
Pen for soldering iron.
There are several types of soldering pens with Hakko T12 stings
(exotic variants of Chinese craftsmen such as such
Let's not count):
— HAKKO FX-9501
— HAKKO FM2028
- a pen from the solders of the 900 series with a special liner for the T12 sting.
Each has its pros and cons, I will not paint (willing can independently find on the Internet and here on the musk).
I myself have HAKKO FX-9501 and 907 with a liner. The first is more convenient for small work, as the cartridge itself is inserted into the handle deeper and the hand is closer to the place of ration, but the cartridge itself is fixed poorly, sometimes cranked in the handle. The second is devoid of this disadvantage and likes more. And let it be called a "fishing rod" - like a long one, you've probably forgotten what a Soviet 40/65 watt solder, that's a rod.
Therefore, when choosing a pen for the new PS, the choice fell on the 907 handle with the liner. Especially for the new controller on the STM32, the Chinese slightly modified the liner, there was a place to install a thermostor.
Also on the liner already marked places rations of five-mile cable, like a small thing, but nice.
The cost of the black pen, taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse was $2.54.
The cost of the liner in the collection with the thermostor and ball sensor position, taking into account the delivery to China to the warehouse of the carrier was $2.61.
A five-mile wire is used to connect the soldering iron to the STM32 controller.
There was orders of wire in a silicone heat-resistant shell.
Wire diameter 5mm
The diameter of each vein is 1mm.
Taking into account the delivery in China to the carrier's warehouse, the price was $6.29 per 8 meters.
I will use 1.5 meters, therefore, its cost will be $1.18.
You can order a collected pen with a liner and wire.
Taking into account the delivery to China to the carrier's warehouse, it will cost $5.67.
But since I already had a liner (ordered a little earlier), I decided to buy a pen and wire, and independently collect a soldering iron.
Since everything is available, we start assembling.
When you install the controller board on the front panel, there was an incident. The fee, for some reason, became crooked relative to the panel.
The fault of all the emphasis, which prevents the rotation of the encoder when screwing fixing the nut.
There was no hole under it on the front. I had to put my hands on it.
Now the controller board has come to its place perfectly.
Let's move on to the case.
Having collected the body and considered it carefully, I came to a sad conclusion - there are no legs and the design does not provide them. And without legs PS will slide all over the table. I had to put my hands on it.
Found in my farm legs for PC, used the same in the previous PS.
Well, if there got used to it, then here will be just right.
The leg is a plastic cap with a diameter of 20mm with a rubber insert.
The leg is 6.5mm high.
That would not damage the coating of the case during mechanical processing pasted it with paint tape.
I marked it. He drilled holes and cut the M3 carving.
Holes with a diameter of 3mm were also drilled in the legs.
To fix the legs used M3 screws with a wide hat (used in the assembly of computers, to fix DVD drives).
The view of the assembled building satisfied me.
With the plumbing finished, we start to ration.
Let's get a pen first.
Sticking the cable to the connector is very simple, the colors lived in the cable and the colors of the wires from the board to the GX12-5P connector match.
Insert the plug plug into the socket and solder "color in color," do not forget about the isolation of contacts.
If anyone is interested, here is the match of contacts of the GX12-5P connector, contacts on the board and the colors of wires in the cable:
1 - on the board contact S, blue wire, position sensor (SW200 or mercurial)
2 - on the board contact N, white wire, termistor NTC
3 - on the board contact E, green wire, grounding of the sting and common for the thermostistor and position sensor
4 - on the board contact G, black wire, T12 -
5 - on the board contact, red wire, T12
Now we drink the cable to the liner, do not forget to put the pen beforehand.
According to the crucifixion and the markings on the liner we nail the cable transactions to the contacts.
We collect the pen, ready.
Let's move on to the installation of the power supply.
As noted earlier, the power supply is inserted into the guide enclosures. The gap under the board is sufficient, sticking out of the bottom of the case screws, which are attached legs, to the board do not get.
If you look closely at the photos on the store's website, where I purchased the power supply, you can see
that according to the Chinese engineer's plan, the BP board and the chain wire pad are tightly sparing among themselves. I didn't like this option, so I attacked the contact pads of the terminal boards,
where directly, where through small pieces of wire, for isolating them shrink.
The connection turned out to be rigid, reliable, but if necessary easy to understand.
Connect the power cord and check the voltage at the outlet of the power supply
exactly 24 volts.
It remains to mount on the front of the connector to connect the soldering iron
Connect all the available connectors, do not forget about the battery (glued on the two-way tape to the bottom of the case), twist the body and enjoy the result.
In the collected form, the PS body is 94mm wide
and 156mm long.
Cross your fingers and hold our breath to turn on...
After 3-4 seconds we see the light screen and exhale with relief - earned!
Now let's look at the work of PS.
As already noted, after the power supply, after 3-4 seconds on the screen appears the image and PS goes into working mode, which is happily reported by the built-in booster in the station.
In working mode, the PS is controlled by the handle encoder. Different combinations are available: rotating the handle, pressing the handle, pressing the handle rotation.
So what do we see on the screen:
- The top left corner shows the mode of operation and the exposed temperature for the current mode
- In the top right corner, the percentage of power supply power coming to the heating element of the sting is displayed at a given time
- To the left in the center of the screen we see the current temperature on the heating element of the sting
- From the right of the current temperature, the time built into the PS watch is displayed
In the bottom left corner, depending on the settings, either the power supply voltage or the type of sting you are used may appear. If you choose to display the chosen stinger, you'll see (0) the stinger is not calibrated,(*) the sting is calibrated.
- In the bottom right corner, the thermometer sign and the temperature of the thermosensor, used to compensate for the temperature of the cold solder, are displayed.
- also in the center of the screen at the bottom sometimes flashes current, signaling the heating of the sting.
Let's look at the management options of the PS.
When the counterclockwise encoder handle rotates, the PS mode switches: work mode (on setscreen), standby mode - Standby(SBY),sleep mode(Sleeping).
The transition to any mode of operation is confirmed by a beep. In standby, the temperature of the heating element of the sting drops to the value set in the menu. In hibernation, the temperature on the heater slowly drops to 50 degrees Celsius, after which the picture on the screen changes. The top row shows the date and day of the week, in the middle row - time (hours-minutes-seconds), in the lower - the temperature on the regret and the temperature of the thermosensor.
To transfer the PS from standby or sleep to work mode, it is enough to click on the encoder handle.
When the encoder handle rotates clockwise, the BOOST mode is activated by boost- boosted heat.
Increase the temperature of the PS sting on the value set in the settings menu and at a given time interval. After this time, the PS goes into working mode and the sting temperature drops.
If in working mode briefly click on the handle of the encoder, the PS will go into the mode of selecting presets and adjusting their temperature.
In this mode, the screen displays Set Temp, preset No.1, and the temperature. To select the next preset, you need to press and rotate the encoder handle. In the selected preset, the rotation of the encoder handle allows you to set the required temperature value, the change step is adjusted through the settings menu. When you briefly click on the encoder handle, the value is memorized and applied. As noted at the beginning of the review, 5 presets are available in total.
A long press on the encoder handle (more than 2 seconds) allows you to get into the Setup Menusettings menu. A total of 19 menu items are available. The transition between the points is rotated - the handle of the encoder, the entrance to a particular item - the click of the handle.
- Waiting Mode settings.
This item displays:
- Stand-off mode: Auto (automatic), Shake (vibration), Switch (switch), Manual (manual).
- - the time through which PS will switch to standby (1÷60 minutes).
is a standby heat element (150÷300 degrees Celsius).
- Set up to sleep (slow shutdown mode).
This item sets up time between 1÷60 minutes before the PS goes to sleep.
- boosted heat.
This item displays:
is an increase in temperature from the current 10÷100 degrees Celsius).
is the time for which boosted heating is turned on (1÷30 minutes).
- compensation for cold solder.
This menu item adjusts the temperature correction of the heating element depending on the temperature of the environment:
Mode is a type of thermosensor used: CPU is a thermometer inside a microcontroller/NTC , a remote sensor in the pen of the soldering iron.
Temp is a temperature of cold solder (-9÷99 degrees Celsius).
- library sting.
is a step change in temperature.
This item on the menu displays a change in temperature when the encoder handle rotates (1÷50 degrees Celsius).
- password protection for the entry into the settings menu.
This item displays:
- Protection Switch: ON - on/OFF - off.
- the time before you start blocking the settings menu (1÷60 minutes).
is the screen keeper.
This item tunes in:
- screen keeper turn on: ON - on/off - off.
- the time interval after which the screen keeper starts (1÷60 minutes).
When the screen keeper is displaying a picture showing the current mode of operation (Running, Standby, Sleeping) and the temperature of the heating element of the sting.
- boozer .
This menu item adjusts the boomer state: ON - on/off - off.
- voltage.
This item on the menu adjusts the switch from the state of the bottom left corner of the display to show the current voltage value applied to the stinger (state - ON) or the type of stinger you've chosen (state - OFF).
- low voltage protection.
This item tunes in:
- Protection state: ON - on/off - off.
" is the voltage value at which a drop signal is sent below the dropped value.
- - the value of the power at which PS will be turned off.
This option is used, for example, when powering PS from batteries.
- Operation mode when you turn on PS.
This item of the menu adjusts the PS mode when it's enabled, with available values: Running, Standby, Sleeping.
is the choice of language.
This menu item selects the language of the system: simplified Chinese or English.
- Setting a date and time.
- reset in 0 seconds values (correcting the accuracy of the clock).
- - a corrective factor that affects the accuracy of the watch (-60÷/60 seconds)
Thanks to the forum man for the algorithm of correcting the course of the clock
- Reset date and time settings to the original state.
- information about the system.
This menu item shows:
HW Version is a version of the board release.
SW Version is a firmware version.
- exit from the settings menu.
When a long press on the handle of the encoder (more than 2 seconds) with a turn in the right get in the menu of the choice of custom stings.
To choose the rotation - the handle of the encoder.
With a long press on the encoder handle (more than 2 seconds) with a turn to the left we get in the menu calibration of the selected sting TipAdjust.
Options are available in this menu:
"Start is the start of the calibration.
Init Adjust - calibration reset.
- Exit Adjust - getting out of calibration mode.
Let's calibrate the sting.
Pre-entering the settings menu, in the substitution 04. Cold end and expose the type of thermosensor used. Since I have a thermosensor in the pen of the soldering iron, I choose the NTC. Next, we put the room temperature, in my case 22 degrees Celsius.
Insert in the handle of the sting, for example, let it be HAKKO BC3.
Let's start calibration.
On the screen we see:
Adjust Point is a 450-c point setting, on the screen below:
Cur Tmp is a temperature displayed on the screen
"Real Tmp is a real temperature on the regret.
Measuring the real sting temperature in any way I can, I use the HAKKO FG-100, and rotating the encoder handle, I put the Real Tmp option on the standard, according to the thermometer. Click on the encoder handle, the picture on the screen changes to
Adjust Point is a 350-c point setting.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Click on the handle of the encoder, the picture on the screen changes again, now on
Adjust Point is a 250-c point setting.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Push on the handle of the encoder, PS goes into working mode. The sting calibration is over.
Check the temperature on the screen and the tip of the sting in working mode
Calibration notes:
-- The value of Adjust Point may be different from what I've mentioned, which is not fundamental. PS is calibrated by three points: at the top of the range of available temperatures, in its middle and below.
- for better calibration, it is desirable to hold it "in one touch" - once touch the tip of the sting to the thermopara and spend all 3 stages of calibration.
If you take the sting out of the handle in working mode, THE ERROR will appear in the center of the screen
signaling about the error.
Now about the costs:
- controller $14.32
- power supply $6.27
- power cord connector $2.09
- $3.88
- front panel $10.15
- back panel $1.78
Pen $2.54
$2.61
- Wire $1.5m $1.18
Total $44.82 excluding delivery.
Weight of collected PS with handle
0.497kg.
Considering that, according to The Express tariffs, the delivery by plane of 1kg of cargo is $8, plus $1 for consolidation and $1 for the parcel,
we will get an approximate delivery cost of this PS - $7-8.
That's actually all I wanted to tell about the PS with the controller STM32.
On the trail of voice (subjective)
Pros:
Great functionality
Simple, easy-to-manage
an informative display
PID - programmatic maintenance of a given temperature
- software calibration of cold solder temperature
- software calibration of the sting temperature by 3 points for 84 standard HAKKO stings and 6 custom stings
- Forming a user list of stings used
5 presets
Cons:
-- the price, not many will want to pay $50 for a "regular soldering iron." But the desire to use a good, high-quality tool sometimes makes the "favorite animal" to get into a corner and not to interfere with living for pleasure.
I would like to thank Nimnul1979 for their inspiration, moral and technical support.
Update No1. When considering the controller board before installing it in the case, I noticed that the horizontal axis of screen symmetry is above the encoder axis. After the installation in the case, the image was draped to the top edge of the plexiglass. It's like a little thing, but it's not pretty.
Therefore, the first modernization of the PS was carried out.
Nimnul1979 with a hairdryer separated the screen from the board and fixed below by 4mm with the help of thin two-way tape.
Result
Those wishing to do this upgrade should be extremely careful, THE OLED screen is quite fragile product.
Screenshots used in the review of the settings menu were made after this refinement.
Update No2. Since the toned plexiglass under the PS indicator is larger than the screen applied, it replaced the OLED screen with the same but with a diagonal of 1.3".
Thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
P.S. If someone from Ukraine has a need to buy something on TaoWao, knock in person, talk.
PSS Found in China-No concept of power supply WOKA 24V3A
PSSS In the sale appeared PS controllers with inverse (wrong way) encoder rotation,this is due to the use of a different type of encoders themselves. Options for solving this "inconvenience" 3:
- replace the encoder itself with the EC11 - as on the original board
- cut the paths to the extreme contacts of the encoder (where there are 3 in a row) and jumpers to recommut them
- Re-test the controller itself, Denis,aka salamatin, made fashions for firmware for controllers PS 2.0 and 2.1S. Firmware on the soldering stations, hairdryer and combo 2v1 in the top to replace the display and then yadisk or google .
PSSSs vulkan35 provided a list of details of this board
Kembrik provided the 2.1S controller scheme
At leisure, I drew a 2.1S controller diagram. Some of the components are not signed because he drew from pictures from the Internet, there is no controller on his hands.
anton713 provided the controller scheme 2.0
Kembrik, vulkan35 and anton713 thank you very much for providing information.
Additional materials: WOKA PS scheme, WOKA BP, STM32_T12_oled_v2.0 scheme
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And the controller displays the info on the voltage display
It's been three months, it's been a great machine, it's melting everything.
aliexpress.com/item/New-220V-OLED-T12-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-72W-With-EU-Plug-T12-Handle/32674414332.html
and another box of Ketay canifoli and T12 anyone to choose from))
I chose the microwave T12-bcM2
Again, I do not see on what chip is built, for me it would be critical that on stm32, the Chinese SCT is not interesting.
I was mastering the new TaoWao market.
A useful thing collected with their own hands increases the credibility among friends and own EGO.
And now essentially...
Looked at your link. Even a quick look at the graphics on the screen indicates that you use a Chinese STC controller, and it is much "poorer" in functionality, and there is not half of the stif.
On STM32, the finished station will cost from $65 and up.
If you have read the review carefully, you might have noticed that this PS can also display the stress info, the percentage of SHIM filling (the percentage of power BP pumped into the sting), and can also control the input voltage when running from the batteries.
STM is overloaded with unnecessary unnecessary information.
The main temperature and power control is the stability of the voltage of the food.
especially for different tasks need a different temperature for one sting.
picks up empirically in the parrots, which gives out the controller.
who is shooting a lot, roughly intuitively knows what temperature to put.
It is not clear why this data is brought into memory.
and the power supply is folk you have weak, for smd will go, and if you need more power,
it's just going to fail.
I took your own picture, here's the photo.
Honest 72W power 6r385p on a decent radiator, diode bridge kbp 307
1. On stm not something not overloaded, you probably did not deal with the prof. equipment, this controller is just made with a good idea in the spirit of the pros :)
2. STC controller is made without linearity calibration, i.e. your controller does not have three-point calibration, one unpleasant moment comes out of it, your calibration will be accurate only in the middle of the temperature range... down and up will be parrots ;)
3. It is also very convenient to have all the profiles of Khakovskiy stings in the controller, because the PID regulator works with them... and knows how to customize integrals... to work with one or another sting!
4. The power supply is not weak, it fits this controller fairly, the right current keeps... and again these controllers have a "soft-start" mode... which does not give the weak BP "suffocate" on a cold pit.
5. Tell me, where is the cold sleep compensator in your controller? And where do you think it's better to position it?
then we draw a conclusion... why then controllers at all, you can take a Soviet soldering iron- dimer ... It's intuitive, isn't it?
with a set of Ketay T12 hacco))
Why these extra settings?
to change on the board Mosfet or simple controller? Normally it works. Very versatile, you can work with smd elements and kettles to lute.
other equipment is needed for more complex tasks.
and this BP is more suitable for eating a Christmas tree garland than for a soldering station.
And who forbids you to use the original stinger ... Frog? :)
We talked about the controller and its work as well as how they differ from each other.
You probably don't know about the size of the size))) and you haven't heard about the non-button PPs either? because they are also small and powerful.
STC minimum is no worse than STM
why this calibration, if very much depends on the state of the sting, and the quality of solder?
To dickly calibrate a few stings? For what???
Know a man who only comes down with an axe, used to just, 128 pin controllers easily.
You only need experience and skill and will not help any ranges on three points and a compensator cold ration.
especially with this device)) the cat is designed to replace simple smd items.
I don't know why all these bells are going on.
Pros - it and in the 40W solder smd resistors 0403 will change easily. And the pan will be sealed, intuitively. And the Chinese 8bit STC will deliver where STM32 is needed. :))))))
I've got stinging heels, but I use two of them all the time. Basic BCM2 and C1 for very thin places. Of course, I can climb into such a place with an axe, but why ??? I'm not a pervert, I have a sting for every job.
I have this main apparatus, I feed them a family and tsop's solder more often than "simple" smd.
If a person soldered at different PS he would appreciate this controller and would use his buns 100%
;)))
imgmgr.banggood.com/images/upload/2015/11/TS100/TS100%20V2.11%20Source%20Code%20New.rar
Since there is a pulsed power with breaks on measurements plus SHIM.
and there the BP will be a normal stand, not like yours, to charge mobiles.
and factory assembly and delivery is included in the cost
And I didn't understand the tension. some % of the chima download. Nonsense
How can the controller know what power you have BP.
Add then to the review video as you melt a piece of solder with peas and readings of the power-strained handles
aliexpress.com/item/STM32-Edition-OLED-T12-Intelligent-Electric-Iron-Temperature-Welding-Units-T12-Automatic-Wake-Sleep-Shock-110/32737787503.html
my option was cheaper
And where to take and how to decide for yourself
On Tao is really cheaper, my kit with an expensive case cost $51. The only thing you need to figure out a little bit is how to buy ;)
Very interesting and instructive; good luck to the author in his (possible:) Plans!
On YouTube, there is little demonstration of ps's work on T12 with visualization of wattmeter, external thermopa (on a pity or landfill) and a stopwatch (can be virtual).
If you take the average or massive sting, the viewer will be able to compare the speed of THE PS response by power and, for example, compare with the same stings of the 900-series with the air layer (although to record a comparative video - it would be even better) to decide to buy or replace the PS.
The sting 900 series is more warm-intensive. But because of the air gap - the power in watts transmitted complain - will be less, and the stability of the temperature on the regret - lower. This means that the heating speed of the landfill will be less and for a comfortable ration of large landfills or massive boards - will have to put the temperature at 50-100 degrees more or longer to warm, which is undesirable for the product.
Monolithic stings T12 - actually compete with more expensive induction blowers 90-120 watts on a thermopara or curie point (the latter is problematic IMHO), having less weight and better mobility (or the difference in the speed of rations - for a conventional ration - is not fundamental). And at times bypass the PS on the stings of 900 series IMHO. Such a video could clearly demonstrate this.
More.
In inexpensive Chinese stings T12 is not enough copper compared to the originals. They will probably have to be activated quite often with thermal zinc chloride zinc. But due to the array of stainless alloy in the sting - such stings will serve for a long time and complain can give any complex shape. And so get not particularly expensive stings which are not on Ali (and even hakko T12): T12-1612 Concave, T12-1610 Concave (can be combined with miniwave), 900M-T-R Shape-R, 900M-T-RT Shape-RT (for SMD rations). Or more expensive stings from the cheap: BCM from The Sun.
The method above can be compared the work of Chinese sting t12 and the original hakko.
But after the operation, there may be problems with wetting the work surface solder. It is necessary to use active fluxes for rations of steel and stainless steel. In particular, the most primitive is the saturated solution of zinc chloride (zinc chloride) and a couple of drops of slat acid (a solution heavier than water). Or simple zinc dissolved to the point in the sly acid. Or any zinc-based purchase. Do a search of the site should be details (sort of combined with ammonium chloride).
From wiki flux to rations of black metals: Strong-acid fluxes ("active fluxes") zinc chloride.
You can wipe the work surface of a clean heated sting with a temperature of 250 degrees and above on all sides with a solution on a cotton stick. Or touch the heat-heated sting drop (working surface in all parts).
From Google:
Thermochemical diffusion zinc
If there is dry salt mixed with ammonium chloride, it may be even better.
The resulting (micron) layer of zinc does not dissolve in the solder and serves for a long time (or already native alloy works after all the bullying, especially with canifol). It is unrealistic to break stainless steel without zinc, steel.
I love the "T12-1610 Concave" sting with a microwave made from the usual sun2. T12-1612 Concave with microwave can be made from Sun3.
For very aesthetes 900M-T-R Shape-R can be made from T12-DL52.
It's working great.
Stinger, Solins TTS-20 (20g)
pripoi.ru/product_info.php?products_id=1199
SOLINS TTS-20 (tip tinner and cleaner) is designed to clean and clean very charred stings that can no longer be cleaned with pulp sponges, bronze shavings or be etshest with soldering.
Application:
1. Bring the soldering iron temperature to t'300-450? C.
2. Load the heated stinger into the medium at an angle of 45?, and rotate slowly.
3. The product melts, actively cleans and clouds the sting.
4. Remove the slags and excess tin with a damp pulp sponge.
5. If the sting has not recovered, repeat the procedure.
Composition:
ammonium phosphate, thin tin powder, binder.
Supplement: Ammonium phosphate and ammonium chloride work the same way.
YOU CAN'T HAVE ACID! Acids spoil eternal stings.
After the acid should be used restorative sting.
Where and by whom is it recommended? Which firm?
I need not to restore the charred sting and to fill a new-caught marriage, half the sting of solder sticks, to the other is not, to the other is not comfortable.
I wonder what stings are all about when they're made.
In the production of ammonium chloride or ammonium phosphate. (home link was, if necessary).
I polish the eternal curves of Chinese stings with a skin zero and then sprinkle with homemade activators on the recipe below.
Make the activator itself is not a problem. gram 3-5 viscous synthetic Chinese flux, the type discussed here, for dilution and viscosity of powder (type "vaseline" soldering neutral not smelly non-resin and charcoal Then you need a soldering paste (any) of microbeads solder or tin (old dried and unfit-diluted it with pure gasoline Kalosha, Sippo, acetone, isopropyl alcohol ... You can buy sanitary paste! (not fluus) for rations of copper pipes made from tin alloy and 3% copper (the most expensive component) in the santech market.
((Composition containing water solution
17.1% Chloride zinc and 1.5% ammonium chloride.
For flux paste up to 60% S-Sn97Cu3 and
Ammonium chloride in the range of 1.5-2.5%
Total water amount 20% for pasta .))
In the mixture of paste you will have 60-70-80 percent in volume, on the eye.
Then mix everything to a state of gray-steel color with small crystals (wash) such as pasta or cement by mind, dilute the solvent to a state of sour cream for good mixing.
Here are my more recipes:
ACTIVATOR JAL
Ammonium chloride
Sn62 Pb Ag2 88%
plus IF 8300
ACTIVATOR JAL
Ammonium chloride 30%
Pasta Sn97 Cu3
17% zinc chloride
Perhaps the reason for the poor mechanical processing - on the conical regret that the part that lusts has a rough surface as a sandpaper passed, which is not loose-smooth. And in general, the sting looks slightly bent. Why don't you try a looka much without bigotry?
Factory activators to improve rations are recommended to be used a couple of times a day.
Click electrik.info/main/praktika/863-kak-obludit-neobgoraemoe-zhalo-u-payalnika.html
It is said that the canifol when rationing more than 300 degrees - spoils the Chinese stings with a tan. And in fact, more than 300 degrees (or better less) Chinese stings are not recommended. Accordingly, this will drastically reduce the need to use activators.
Load into the wash and heat up to 400g.
Do not drive a drop of solder and first a naked sting in the wash to fry and THEN in a drop of solder.
At 99.9% should be stydl even if nickel or the Chinese put on a sting unknown what.
Or you don't heat the sting over 350!!!g.
That's a mystery by the way.
Nickel on contacts is easily snuggled but only not on the stings, the one that is applied from above.
This nickel is a horseradish in the wash and at 450g!!!
Lots of solders and flux (with zinc chloride).
As well as the "Recipe Guide for Electrical Engineering"
Hryapin V.E. - Solder's Handbook
Petrunin I. E. - A Brief Handbook
There's a rutrecker on it.
Theoretically, you can pick up neutral fluxes that do not require laundering (tests preferably checked with a megometer in high humidity) or washed away by water. And replace them expensive purchase (with an unknown composition).
tried to confuse the activator on the recipe - the mixture I received does not work :(
powder
MECHANIC Sn63/Pb67 Solder Paste Flux XG-50
flux gel kingbo RMA-218
added a little alcohol.
Wait until he's dry.
tried at temperatures of 300-350-400 on the station.
from the mixture when immersing the sting immediately stand out the crystals of the wash and stick to it (complain).
No puddle occurs.
in the process of experiments, I tried to reduce the number of washers and cleaned alcohol - added small sawdust solder after the file (the paste was a pity to translate) - the result is the same.
The only thing that the snu bit didn't cut back on. perhaps it makes sense to grind a smaller one?
What should the process with a homemade activator look like?
how is youtu.be/h71VQ_MC600?t=206 with the melting of the powder and the release of liquid?
Or you have a fake snuap as an option.
Because usually get around the general in the dry wash is excellent! And even without grinding in balls!
As a variant of the station, the station will be lying on the temperature-check heat-pair separately on the TIP of the sting.
Liquid is not liquid (this flux melts if there is a lot of it) and smoke goes... Yes, it looks like this, but I have a liquid flux less than 2 times and the "liquid" almost does not stand out.
Well, clean the sting should be from dirt too in a sponge or shavings.
Alcohol is not worth adding-it contains water.
(((from the mixture when immersing the sting immediately stand out the crystals of the wash and stick to it (complain).
no puddle is happening.)) Low temperature, fake snuar.
I doubt that the styr was forged... it's not worth much already
They scratched what was out of the vat, and the inscription fell off.
Either poorly cleaned or a mixture of chemicals or a tank wash forgotten or the barrels dirty. I wouldn't be surprised.
Another option: fake sting coating from HCH.
I have homemade activators worked on all of my bought stings.How 900 for 30 cents (pieces 30 bought, half garbage) and T-12 for 4-6 dollars.
And a variety of compositions worked: from the German flux and German branded paste and washer from the radio base.
From the Chinese flux of RMAA and the plumbing Polish paste tin and washer with a radiobarazar... Etc.
60-80% soldering paste (soldered sawdust)
20-30% wash detergent powder
petrol, flux to taste (bring the mixture to the desired consistency)
?
https://world.taobao.com/item/529311405029.htm
https://world.taobao.com/item/536743632166.htm
https://world.taobao.com/item/533893277847.htm
https://world.taobao.com/item/534001432051.htm
https://world.taobao.com/item/529249246589.htm is the latest version of 2.1S
There are few fundamental differences, mainly the draw of the board. The 2.1S is slightly different graphics on the display.
All these clones of Chinese design 2014
and soldering hair dryers will also order together
https://mega.nz/#F!lgECXRaL!grKPEF49VUvZJ_9TLbUiWw
As you can see from the photo, the controller will gather the soldering pad controller.
THE PHOTOS are not my ;)
https://world.taobao.com/item/44332637581.htm - hairdryer as a separate device
https://world.taobao.com/item/521250763857.htm is a soldering iron - hairdryer on a single board
The first option in the purchase, will come, collect, perhaps and the review will take place
everything has already arrived, but the abundance of holidays...
option where the hairdryer is soldered in one case I didn't order
- any controller, references to the options gave above.
The case, the one that at the end of the description of the case in the review, is https://world.taobao.com/item/538942773646.htm
- the power supply at your discretion, but in the case that the link "people" may not fit, long 120mm
Pen at your discretion
And 1.3" also look with SPI? (IIC displays probably won't fit?)
And there's a photo clearly not I2C.
Can you tell me why? I believe it's a versatile Oled display with a switchable interface (I2C - SPI).
If you're wrong, correct me.
6 pin modules https://world.taobao.com/item/530763498769.htm
4 pin modules https://world.taobao.com/item/530763650699.htm
- https://world.taobao.com/item/530763498769.htm - the same interface is used in this PS with a screen of 0.96"
— https://world.taobao.com/item/45616146302.htm
— https://world.taobao.com/item/520184656253.htm
The only question is, could you find everything from one seller?
Delivery to China 10-12 yuan and if you take five (for example) positions from different sellers, the overpayment can be up to 50-60 yuan (about 7-8 dollars at the rate of alipei)
Shipping to China ranges from 0 to 17 yuan (what I met). It all depends on the weight and distance.
You took four sets, so the Chinese sizzling per unit turned out to be less.
If you take one set on this scheme, it will be much more expensive.
And most likely to turn out more expensive than the finished kit from the seller with normal controllers.
Once again - the review is super, but for the buyer of one set most likely there is no sense to bother collecting different components from different sellers.
And is it worth the difference in the set-?
Upd
B again - review super-full and you can even say will become a textbook on PS on stm32
when describing each component, I gave the final price of delivery to China for 1pc. (what really was not interesting to you, because you did not voice), the same price counted when calculating the cost, so the cost of one set is relevant, there are links, you can count and see yourself
From here we need to find:
2 cases, hairdryer/solder controllers on STM32, 2 meters 5/1mm, 2 meters 8-1mm))
at the beginning of the discussion link
True price $25 with trifle
In a plastic case 5 270.11 rubles.
After correspondence with the seller and the story about the wanted asked to add the goods from TaoBao to which the producer did not break and made new positions, but the price tag at the end went off the scale: link 1, link 2
Particularly off the price of the controller and power supply 24V 4A 6A
The only thing that stops is feedback about carriers and no guarantees.
The price tag was noticeably raised, I already understood that.
October 31 IT cost: 2220r.18k. With the coupon of this store as a result: 2089r.71k.
Until 12.11 I understood nothing to buy if not sure that it is really a discount.
US $23.68
US $12.05
US $12.46
US $88.69 (11.11 - US$66.52)
On Tao cheaper
Shopping specialists on Tao, write a detailed murzilka with photos, as optimal (price, delivery time, minimum clicks on the keyboard) to shop on Tao.
We're going to go with Ali :)
It all looks muddy for the first time.
As you can see, it worked out.
The carrier receiving the goods to the warehouse checks it, compares with the data on the store's website, if desired, you can (for additional money naturally) do a check/photo report.
Consultation support online, in Russian language,
I just immediately cooled down to this idea when I read the fresh (2016) reviews about the three leading carriers to Russia.
Do they have human?
Ali, for example, his course, although I also pay with a card.
However, they seem to be at once in rubles put the price.
Well, as I say, on Ali the controller fee is $25 with a trifle, on Tao $14 with a trifle - delivery - good difference
Folk BP 105mm - the thickness of the controller board with a screen and 18mm connectors - a pad of network wire with contacts 27mm q 150mm
installed a "people's BP" on top of his own - everything is easy to fit in.
If the case is shorter, there may be problems.
"Oh, these tales, oh, these storytellers..." ©
And there's more copper.
NAKCO replacement tips
for rations
Replacement tips (more spread
the term - heads) used
NACCO solders were the first
1976. The main task
this design was to provide a maxi
heat transfer from head to contact
that ration, as well as maintaining the profile of the holo-
for a long time, even if it is
a needle with a radius of 0.1-0.2 mm.
The base of the head is pure copper,
The battery is a wonderful battery
Heat (Figure 7). It was made of
not yet for the very first solders. Copper
protected from burnout by a layer of clean
(99,9%) 300 microns thick iron. It is a
a fine conductor of heat, at the same time
time because of its physical properties,
lezo reliably retains the shape of the copper
it has been inflicted, providing such an appropriate
maximum long-lasting head.
The working surface of the head is covered
we're going to eat iron. To protect against corrosion
on the entire surface of the head (except
(work surface) a layer of chromium.
The proposed solution is now widely accepted
changes in the heads of all the leading firms. And ane-
Plato Products Inc.
is based on the release of heads of such multi-layered
designs for all the world's leading firms:
HAKKO, Pace, Weller, Ersa, O.K Industries, Antex,
Esico, Adcola, Ungar and many others.
If even old stings can easily be dissolved and converted to copper from cable, silver, what zinc bronze (though hardly persistent), with the restoration of thermal conductive cement-glue - it is generally super.
About the station I can say only good, the only drawback is the size, on my small desktop too much space takes up.
But the "original" sting from Jovi - no different in quality from the Chinese T12. Although they are much more expensive.
It is better to pay a little more and take the original Hakko, I did in the end, the three most commonly used sting bought on the ebay original, not too expensive to say that somewhere about $25 per sting. Here they have a difference with the Chinese at high temperatures huge.
I took 900 stings from Hakko's office in Russia, but you can't say they're perfect, but certainly better than the Chinese ones.
ebay.com/itm/371773918883
Excellent PS you got it.
they write that they don't want to, or whatever, like something that's uninhabitable. Probably the acid eg ozacelled.
need a pancake for acid order the cheapest stinger
And if spoiled then restore the activator sting.
Buy or make a homemade activator, see my article above on the topic.
If you want to buy acid or make a pure copper sting, but it will quickly burn and dissolve.
Or as the author recommends nick23 above, cover the iron of the eternal sting of CINC.I don't know, I don't know, I'm quicker after the acid to restore a cheap Chinese sting, which is not sorry, activator.
ru.aliexpress.com/store/group/T12-Soldering-Iron/918038_500908260.html
And controller 2.0 with 1.3 display - the temperature jumps back and forth at 5-30 degrees. on any regret (of the remaining). Whether the operating room drives, or software ... what to do about it...
tell me, if you turn on the station without a handle - is the error burning constantly, or changing back and forth to the temperature?
If you can't beat the temperature difference, output one, take the other sting... Chinese when creating the controller, used the original sting and based on their made profiles, I have a couple of good stings, so that's the difference is 1-5 grd. This is tailored to good calibration and don't forget when changing the sting to include the desired sting profile.
it's on a snousful regret
Why aren't your sting calibrated?
Preferably!
all purchased stings calibrate, so you train your station your current stingers, after calibration you will have in the brackets point, opposite the profile, it is still desirable not to be lazy and choose the right profile of the sting when changing ... It's important.
Before calibrating, reset the settings for the purity of the experiment. Even if it doesn't help, check your BP... maybe there's something on nutrition.
P.S. Looked again video, I have not even calibrated so do not dance, then go exactly in the feeder you need to look, such as does not hold the load, check the capacitors.
Do not believe, I write you the answer, soldering iron is standing on the side, I notice that the "activity" on the screen has increased ... I see, the numbers run, there is no stability, chaotically flashes the point (the indicator of the vibration sensor) and where the temperature indicator of the cold sleeping, instead of the thermometer there is an exclamation point ... I think we're coming here.... began to check, disassembled the soldering pen and saw a gap on the ring... I've lost it and taken it off with my hand. . . . so you need to check everything after the Chinese ;)
At the previous PS there was the same joint, the temperature was walking - the liner was drunk and everything went away.
"Fathers" tell me, the station has not started yet, we need to cut off the second end of the thermostoror from the minus of the heater and drag on the ground sting? Or is it customized by the type of stinger in the controller itself?
And the question, in this scheme is applied non-polar termistor, no matter what end to include in the scheme?
What's he talking about?
That is almost no difference.
Thank you again!
there's a major difference in the wiring of food
The Chinese don't fall well. When I got this controller, I didn't even include it.
Look here.
By the way, I noticed from the photos that in version 2.1S the capacitor C3 was replaced by an electrolyte.
https://world.taobao.com/item/529249246589.htm
Do you even know anything about her?
Translate its features from Tao and read in the review - the same thing.
It is possible to order the 1.3 screen immediately."
Buy, collect and write your review ;)
In principle, you were comfortable to buy from the seller where the panel was taken.
I still have a four-pin pad on the board confused, I do not understand why. Maybe two on a battery, and the other two where? (these are thoughts out loud, but if you know the answer, share it).
Here's a link to controller v2.1s
And why the second (4pin top) "SWD" is signed, I do not understand.
(5pin right) - soldering iron
1 - on the board contact S, blue wire, position sensor (SW200 or mercurial)
2 - on the board contact N, white wire, termistor NTC
3 - on the board contact E, green wire, grounding of the sting and common for the thermostistor and position sensor
4 - on the board contact G, black wire, T12 -
5 - on the board contact, red wire, T12
and SWD for re-stitching
SWD - Serial Wire Debug
Yandex :) to blame
In the handles FM2028 and FX9501 this moment is not solved in a normal way? In the pictures saw that the tail is splayed, but it is not clear where it is placed there.
The sensor to take with coaxial findings opposite.
I did so: One output soldering to the contact of the sting holder is a generic (-) wire powering the sting (hard-mounting sensor and saving 1 wire), to the second output of the wire from the handle to the controller's input (SW).
The wire itself is fixed in the handle by the plastic screw M4 (cut off a piece from the plastic threaded rack and the grinding slot under the screw) the screw presses the wire through a rubber protective bend at the exit of the hose.
It is also useful to fix the screw (can be metal) and the pin holder of the stinger for it will elite in the body.
SW200 is only a heat drain!!! both outputs, in the form of a clamp or tweezer, as the half of the cup (cover) is plastic and easily melted.
If the handle is even smaller, such as homemade sharpened turners, then take a micro sensor-mercury.
aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-bag-3MM-tilt-switch-mercury-switch-original-authentic-way/32264568920.html
Seller Calls It: 3MM Tilt Switch Mercury
He won't climb out the back
Dreams, dreams... There is no such thing in the domestic Internet and there will be no such thing.
Even the owners of Japanese sting 900 units.
In the western internet there were articles with photos how to distinguish fake T-12 from the original.
Left a fake Chinese:
Here are the originals:
Here are some more originals:
It is even easier on the linearity of thermopara.Chinese terribly non-linear ("alloy" of thermal steam metals is not normalized).
Even the original thermopara has a decent non-linearity:
But the point in this is NO! Unless you're taking BU from the factory.
Because fakes and clones differ at first sight on PRICE.Ha-ha-ha... Anything that is cheaper than 20-30 dollars...
Is there a difference between 180p and 400-500 ruble stings?
ebay.com/itm/232793003897
It's just a SYS! 8-)
Because there's the famous "electro-mountain electric contact" of the type of "cri."
Which is just electrical contact does NOT guarantee.
Otherwise, the temperature readings will jump or it will be like here:
The SW-200D sensor was installed on the mount (pictured highlighted by red dots)
Sensors bought here aliexpress.com/item/10PC-Lot-SW-200D-SW200D-Ball-Switch-SW-200D-Tilt-Angle-Sensor-Switch-Angle-Switch-YXSMDZ442/32552161344.html
The "tail" of the handle is fixed to the glue "Moment Gel" (pictured highlighted in red), now does not falls off and therefore there is no possibility to take photos of internalities
Waiting for the arrival of STM32 Edition OLED T12 Intelligent Electric Temperature Welding Units T12 Automatic Wake-Sleep Shock 110-240v 72W
aliexpress.com/item/STM32-Edition-OLED-T12-Intelligent-Electric-Iron-Temperature-Welding-Units-T12-Automatic-Wake-Sleep-Shock-110/32737787503.html
He did not let me sleep peacefully, demanded to find options for buying on Tao.
As a result - a review.
Here's in this store
there are already "modernized" controllers with a center-shifted display, as I did in the review.
Photos from reviews in the store
The truth is the price of the controller itself is not humane at all
If the sale really will be 12 with a trifle, then those who want to buy obviously add.
Price tags are jacked up because of 11.11
The seller will now be able to reset 30% on personal appeal.
At my request, the al case and the controller v.2.1swere put up, following your link to TaoBao, but agreed that we will discuss the price after 11.11, as now the price is unreal.
But if there really appear at a reasonable price controllers with Tao, it will be great.
What is the difference I do not know, if I do not find out, I will take v2.0, because it is already a proven solution.
It seems to have displays at 1.3" at once.
It was later, when ordered, found more options and began to understand their differences.
He said he threw it in the water.
Arguments, prices, links ???
scoreboard from nokia1202 to 80r.
lm358 to 10r.
encoder for 70p.
And forward
scoreboard from nokia1202 to 80r.
lm358 to 10r.
encoder for 70p.
And forward
link by the names of the chips to Ali
Is there a ready-made solution? Has someone already written the firmware, rolled and laid out?
If you are so smart, so share with the society, write a review, and we honor, appreciate ...
It's not the whole milling station, at least you need a BP and a hull.
P.S. And the same esseries all over the forum
I don't care about it or not.
Who can and wants to:thly
Lcd screen nokia 1202... small, faded with bad viewing angles, lots of fakes... There is no OLED even with a small one.
LM358... controversial operas, terms of accuracy ;) But everyone's favorite ;)
lm358 is not a good option!!! His IOV will lead to errors. If you are satisfied with swimming temperatures up to a couple of tens of degrees, take EPSN with the regulator, there will be no difference.
On Ali now appeared another controller on stm32
aliexpress.com/item/The-latest-Version-of-OLED-Soldering-Station-Control-Panel-STM32-edition-OLED-Screen-Control-Panel-Electric/32706564155.html
Judging by the coil on the board, with a normal lowering shim 24-5in Anyone can say what about him? Does he have a three-point calibration?
And what prevents you from immediately translating from Chinese to Russian???
Isn't 24B 3A constantly served on soldering iron???
The connector does a great job.
Google is still translating into English first, intermediate language
Why slag?
and the money for the variant stc q oled Chinese are no less than STM32 and OLED
Very similar, isn't it? The cortex-m0 core, unlike Cortex-m3 in the overlooked. There is no calibration on three points.
Chevo, can you find out more?
If YES, such questions should not arise...
If NO, first pull up the theory, Google or refer to VICKY. The questions will fall away themselves.
Good luck;-)
PS do not consider for rudeness, but to deal with the likbez is already in order tired ...
P.S. Writing... Yes, yes... Everything you need to be done for a soldering station is done here... the only one is a whale. Sting... which shit is rare in thermal conductivity... But here how lucky ... can and normal get caught.
It is not clear where there is a memory chip, a temperature sensor on the board or in the handle and the watch quartz is not visible ... Although the time of the wro de is on display...
It is worth more than anything more expensive than all that is in the reviews and on the ali in lots...
aliexpress.com/store/product/T12-OLED-Display-DIY-Kits-T12-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-TipsTemperature-Controller-Wake-Sleep-Shock-110-240v/1486111_32786936747.html
https://world.taobao.com/item/534001432051.htm
there's version 1.0, and you already have 1.3.
WOKA. My functionality is the same. Slightly different diluted power chains, the battery is already on the board. There's a quartz on the board, it tacts the work of STM-ki. Located near the boozer, designated Y1
Sy Late, Sasha used to write ;)
But here I saw that the connector under the soldering iron with 6 contacts, marked T and the track on it goes from the soldering iron through the resistor, though only from the 1st side can be seen.
Where to connect it if the finger has 5 contacts in the nest...
STM32F103CBT6 is the most powerful stone in the world.?
Sorri I learned from these controllers when I began to choose PS and when there were 5-6 different controllers there was a question - and what exactly the difference ...
And thanks to the posts above, it became clear what STC/
Gnd - minus
24 - food
"Z" - plus the sting T12
G - minus T12
E - grounding of the stinger and common for the thermostor and position sensor
N - NTC termistor
S - position sensor
T is a 900 series thermopar, using T12... Don't use it.
as far as I've figured out here supported 3 type of sting T12、JBC、936
Progress in the Chinese does not stand still ...
Read here:
www.compel.ru/lib/ne/2011/2/3-stm32-epoha-32-bitnyih-mikrokontrollerov-nastupila
Well, let's see what the answer is...
Although I'm very much doubted about it.
And probably won't answer the same if you run over him - I've read reviews on other lots - apologises for not explaining anything and can't help :)
There is a man who bought a similar one on TAO, last donkey, but he does not answer...
mysku.ru/blog/taobao/42202.html#comment1626282
mysku.ru/blog/taobao/42202.html#comment1660517
This controller supports T12, 939 and JBC
And is there a base of sting - TH
I'm not a pioneer in controllers on STM32, before I've had reviews ;)))
and yet she had sets with large hulls woka price tag true horse ...
aliexpress.com/store/product/Soldering-Station-Temperature-Controller-T12-OLED-Display-DIY-Sets-T12-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-Tips-110-240v/1486111_32792237590.html
v1.2 controller version
Maybe the firmware is different...
I noticed - there are 2 connectors to connect the motors - pumps and something else ...
cloud.video.taobao.com/play/u/2246999199/p/1/e/1/t/10301/51312117.swf
vodcdn.video.taobao.com/player/ugc/tb_ugc_bytes_core_player_loader.swf?version=1.0.20170206&show_share_button=false&tplanguage=english&vid=51312117&uid=2246999199&p=1&t=10301&rid=&random=6666
Price of the Trindets
$200 for a station with a soldering iron , $80 for a hairdryer pen
The price is certainly not a fountain.
It is possible to apply an alternative option
v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMTI1NzI5NzgyNA==.html?spm=a2h0j.8191423.module_basic_relation.5~5!2~5~5!22~5~5~A&from=y1.2-1-176.3.20-1.1-1-1-19-0
First mysku.ru/blog/taobao/45851.html#comment1955124 Kit
Everything is fair and guaranteed there...
I'm old for tao and with ali help me, so so far without options ...
According to your description - I enter the calibration - the start - the sting begins to roam up to 450, I enter the measured deposit - the iron on the encoder and the bam
ERROR - what, where the thz does not work... Sit guess, firmware, controller, memory chip or something...
Who can tell you what by this mistake?
and if the sting K warms somewhere up to 450 on self-control measurements when calibrated,
The D24 comes to 450 and jumps 450 to 999...
but with all the stings still in error fall out at the confirmation ...
Pichal ... and so of course the stings make a good impression in the work, despite the nuances - branded probably generally chic.
Everyone's menus are very similar.
the right button on the picture - open in the new window and many pictures will be on the whole screen ...
there is no question in the post - what to help?
Unfortunately, the base of the sting seems to be gone... or I didn't understand something - the tip menu has a choice of only the type of T12 cardry- JBC- 936
I'll put the menu later on.
tried to "reset" the battery - the watch dropped - the calibration did not affect.
When you click on Init adj - it just falls out the work window - the video is there.
Yesterday I was sitting under a magnifying glass looking at snot or cold ration - everything seems to be fine, the chip soldered neatly.
and it seems that the chip fell on the machine, and everything else in manual ...
wires, connections - rang, connectors "stitched, measured to resist - no crime.
Resistance measured straight from the ration of the connector on the board to the cartridge to make all the contacts in the measurement entered ...
is there an oscillograph c1-94, can you on some signals on the processor to understand the malfunction?
I understood so in the calibration after putting the 450g point on the click it records somewhere value and moves on to the next point !?
stlink is not yet available and the people here in the district also have no :(
yesaa - from the flux immediately washed.
I still love the way you put your time out to sleep.
But the review does not reflected the graph and linearity of temperatures after calibrating a particular sting.
I would also like to know about the thermosensor (type, parameters, than replace) that is put to compensate for the thermosing in the handle. But the NTS doesn't look like anything.
Because some sell as a bare board without a sensor-as you want and connect.
I have in the handle is ntC form of a black ball in diameter of 1.5-2 mm, as is in the form of a diode ... 4-5K (met 10K)... is located near the conclusions of "z" and "-"
https://world.taobao.com/item/541367351944.htm
The thermopa in the pity is NOT.
And you set it up at least on 4 points, between points it will in theory remain nonlineous.
It is necessary to remove at least 1-2 points of temperature between the calibration points of the station.
It is not necessary to build a graph, it is enough to bring the measurements in a column and it will be all clear.
Give intermediate measurements of the most popular temperatures in the range of 270-330 grams, as far as they correspond to reality (which is on the scoreboard and in real).
For example, 260,270,280,290,300,310,320,330g.
Eight points.
What's going on? And thermoprophiles do not know what they are for, on the radio station there is a station from the author of the Victor_P he also made a thermoprophili ... because the stings are different and their linearity (TP is different)... each profile has a three-point calibration, which minimizes the non-linearity of different types of stings... what a folk station can't do!
This station has all kinds of khaka stings, there are custom profiles, there is compensation for cold sleeping with the choice of sensor location (the pen of the soldering iron or case (as in the folk)... but it's right as close to a cold spa(sting contacts)
Yes, as if not a problem, but here I have a problem with time, and even would be a normal meter with communication through the computer ... In general, there would be class... I'll try to find it.
The principle of the stations is ABSOLUTELY the same, as well as their power.
Different only software.
2.
You're confusing something. A pie with a curve of non-linearity of a FREE Chinese sting from an unknown alloy.
What does the mythical ALL Hakko stings have to do with it? If the Chinese are different from them.
PID is also at the people's station and it is not divided and regulated anywhere, but only under one type of sting and alloy thermopapa.
Some wonderful well-said tales tell how the magical stations of amateur developers on 3 points restore the Chinese sting to the Japanese branded Hakko, but the testing do not want to not give away a military secret. Why didn't we buy the station from the author of the Victor_P he also made a thermoprophile...? :)))
And I didn't understand how they build a curve of 3 points.
It's going to be a triangle.
3.
What is the problem with time if initially in 2 reviews is not what is really necessary in the first place, that is, testing the accuracy of temperature retention within the working temperature of rations from 270 to 330g.Although idly.
Well, I hope in the 3rd review they will appear at the end.
Remove the Hakko-100 thermometer
7 consecutive temperatures in idle a lot of time is not necessary, minutes in 7 you can meet.
Don't? I wrote somewhere that PID and profile are the same thing?
In each profile,laid the ratios of the PID regulator, which is adjusted by the TYPE of sting,in simple words, the controller puts specific settings under the type of sting ... and YOU themselves tell him what type of it to rebuild them (pid settings)... for example, for the sting "needle" some and for the sting "axe" others ... Got it? People don't have that! And it uses one setting to all the sting! but it won't be true... for different masses sting, etc.
Believe me, on the head made controller can work with non-linear stings, and even more so with the original, I say this because tried this controller with GOOT RX-80HRT ... little has modified his ;) and I was VERY surprised how the ORIGINAL works ;)
Here's a look at the www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnAt5UJGx-E process of setting up the ;)
How do you feel about that? didn't expect, I did almost everything the station did from the radio ;)
Really cool everything, but not to the end ... each author rested on his own stone.
Yes... you still need to read and read... Going to the first solder you? And in general, there is at least something that you can argue to me ... beyond your higher utterance?
Tell me how to measure the temperature on the tip of the sting? Purely interesting))) to poke TP from the device into the tip of the sting?))))
And also show you parrots measured by the Chinese clone Hakko-100? Nonsense... Read how to properly measure... And then you're smart. Unless of course you want the truth, not the parrots.
How much concenation, has and pride!
And 0 information.
Yes, I really want to read how to measure.
Do you have a device more accurate than 100 clone of Hakko?
What confuses you that so much contempt, money is burning?
Do you need to be more precise than 3 degrees . And... You're a well-known station designer, yes you have accuracy on the regret of 1 degree,0.01 no?..
I can "show" how, but not on YouTube and in writing.
Paaya is more than 30 years old, started as a radio artist in 81g, the branded Soviet measure of the temperature of the soldering iron I use since 94 (Hacco-100 clone so much better and twice in 2 more precisely). It's interesting to read, maybe I'll learn something new.
And how does PID for one stinger (in the people's station) differ from PID for several memory cells for many stings in this station? Well, apart from convenience, it's a no-one.
Or maybe you want to say that ETA program smears PID coef SAM by 3 points automatically? But you didn't say that.
So still points are not enough for accuracy.
You can't build an exact curve at 3 points, or a triangle or a made-up curve.
And most importantly, the main thing is that ALL unsubstantiated because THERE are NO measurements!:))) That is, one word-word-words...
Think of something more convincing, like the fact that there's a FREE PID.
And I didn't need a likbez, I'd collect stations and read and teach theory.
No matter how much you collect... It's still cheaper to buy at ALI.
Come on... Read it again... even on the radio station Victor, already made on the profiles of sting, only he made a manual PI regulator in the profiles of ;) and the station can work with all types of solders... Can you imagine not missing it? And then there is little "people's controller" eyes to you and says "do not look at other stations, I'm the lucker of all ;)"
I went to the wrong time ;)
It is not true, it is one thing to collect and not reach the final (different reasons)... it's another thing to beat the finals (to make it even better).
By the way - 1n4148 works perfectly as a thermosensor. I had an Orion flight comp in the car. The thermosensor was two 1N4148, enabled sequentially.
Diodes as a thermoressor?
With the constant value of the current flowing in a straight direction, such as the diode transition, the voltage at the transition changes almost linearly with the change in temperature.
Taken from here: electricalschool.info/main/sovety/534-kak-ispolzovat-diody-i-tranzistory-dlja.html
You can still ask Google
www.orion43.ru/pdf/9811.pdf
www.orion43.ru/pdf/10444.pdf
I can find the date myself.
Parmeters for a particular station is the type and resistance and not the PDF on the ALL series.
Resistance 4-5K (met 10K)-station that does not care for resistance, it is exposed in the settings?
So 4k or 10k?
If I put you in the air conditioner instead of a 10k termistor, you'll cover with ice.
And in general, tie up with the trolling and go fishing ... believe me, you're going to ;)
And minusers connoisseurs of match and technique?
P.S. Trolling is not going, I'm not going to answer stupid comments.
To not look so stupid.
For anyone else that 4 kilooma, that 10 kilos at 20C is the same for the thermoressor and the station.
I advise YOU to have my polemics and drooling... shove in the branch of the "people's controller" ... but not this controller.
Listen to the clever man, I read your conclusions in the branch of the people's controller, go and smoke your blunt controller, your brain will be enough for him... No more!
EPSN -60-220 IN YOUR HANDS NO MORE!!!
Consulted with the author - he helped to decide - for which he is very grateful.
My option:
Hull - $12
BP q 4.32 $
controller - $16
connector - $0.39
Pen : $0.96
liner q $1.09
Wire x2 q $1.1
TOTAL: 12 q 4.32 q 16 q 0.39 q 0.96 q 1.09 q 1.1 q 35.86 $ excluding shipping in China
The option offered to me by the author - all from the same store, so the delivery to China will be less
Hull : $12.8
pen and connector - ready-made kit - $4.07
БП = 3.78$
controller - $16
TOTAL: $12.8, $4.07, $3.78, $16, $36.65 excluding shipping to China
I ordered it (I had 4 sets in the order)
Some of them don't work anymore, and it's not easy to understand Chinese...
Specify...
Dealing with Tao is not complicated
The case is over, there is another, like without pens and a front plate.
About the address of the most ad... I enter from 2 tabs one with translation, stealing in Chinese, in the throld I enter everything, and this nit asks me to specify the address on the map where only hieroglyphics, here at least hang ...
The address of the warehouse is entered with the meest.cn "WHERE IS YOUR WORLD?"even figured out what it is but on the crta Google can not find. to properly poke or understand if I understood the taobao correctly where to send
The corps ordered https://world.taobao.com/item/539392658616.htm here.
in the same store to him still a network pad https://world.taobao.com/item/536927327500.htm
The price comes out even cheaper than the body in the collection, the only no legs
If you specify, The Express (meest.cn) is being taken to Russia or not because it is a Ukrainian company.
I have to do it (to understand how to buy on Tao, how and where to carry, what exactly to buy) took a couple of weeks ;)
aliexpress.com/item/T12-B2-T12-K-T12-BL-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-STM32-OLED-Controller-Handle-Station-Case-110/32762065063.html
Amount 2500
But:
No pen to the encoder
No fasteners
- and I doubt very much that there is a spare glass
Here's my kit
just above, today already laid out an alternative version of the hull in the collection
https://world.taobao.com/item/539392658616.htm
to it still network pad with button and fuse need
Here in the same store https://world.taobao.com/item/536927327500.htm
If they've already started to bother with Tao, they'd buy everything here.
It's all, the Tao security certificate is overdue
I use CyberFox (a clone of masila), there is no problem with it
Two weeks I try different options - it does not work.
Tried different options: First ADJ then SET and vice versa. Powered by the network and from the battery.
They're still lagging behind. And he never found a correlation with his actions. It seems that the accuracy of the course depends
from dust storms in Sahar.
But if there is a function of correction, it should work. And it turns out that no. What a pity.
And the rest is fine.
the watch does not affect the functionality of the watch, so having bothered for a month stopped paying attention to them.
- take the old, but working BP AT from the computer and modify it according to the famous scheme of the Italian
- we put the desired 24B on the way out, and on the end of the stock we will have at least 2-3 times
-- we shove the controller's board into the same case, there's a lot of space, and the headscarf is small
As a result, we have PS. Cheap and angry.
BIG RESPECT Denis aka salamatin
Thanks to Denis aka salamatin
https://world.taobao.com/item/524325408272.htm
An unusual power supply
The hairdryer is powered by a 220B network
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQDrU4IK5og
I'm wondering which hairdryer will come up to him. like there are hairdryers with thermopa and thermo-researchors or with different thermoparas...
And the Chinese do not write these parameters in the description, at best the turbine voltage is 12 or 24in
I'll buy on Ali, and there's a two-door with a controller broke on the hairdryer 3 end ...
here with the choice of hair dryer and there was a problem, the controller is sharpened under a specific model, waiting for the next one with Tao
www.xiaobaiban.net/video-play-2pb6MoLvaH54gBaIk5aM9Xeh8BtuKTH_2B.htm
www.xiaobaiban.net/video-play-vCmpP2K8KDvKxpX_2B1DABntC09fWQBBpl.htm
www.xiaobaiban.net/video-play-OfzYcYJkecG1TP3CqqnVcuUr6XyyYVti.htm
www.xiaobaiban.net/video-play-Y18ADxDYcon8PyCYup9axnyzVctALBKD.htm
It's all the same, the price depends on the greed of the seller or yet what is produced by the artisanal method and worse quality, and those that are more expensive - factory?
One seller can have a sting and laser engraved and without... But this lottery as I understood, what will put in the parcel is unknown ... Does it even mean anything?
I really had a :) on the roof in a couple of days...
If anyone gives references to proven sellers with swollen stings on ALI - I will be very grateful.
ps In any case you need to buy and try...
a Google translator, like a plug-in for a browser, so is the most important thing
forum.cxem.net/index.php?/blogs/entry/337-%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BA%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%82-%D0%BE-%D0%B6%D0%B0%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%85-hakko-t12/
Unfortunately, the difference in the price of Chinese stings is unclear...
It's better to look there www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t12.html
Is it so important for you to keep track of the temperature with an accuracy of 1 degree? Use the original stinger...
What is the version of the controller board? If you decide, look here
And then you could get a cigarette in the settings of anything...
The seller is unlikely to help, he's just a bargain
We've been asking for a new controller (I've laid out the firmware) as I ask for activation codes - knock on the face of Denis aka salamatin,it will help...
and you'll be happy
In settings:
04. Cold end - what do you have on display? It's 67 degrees Celsius.
Put the room temperature out.
Put your tongue out
Put the room on.
"Do the calibration.
check on the other stings, perhaps the sting itself is defective
Ordered here
In the photo store there is no quartz and connector for the battery, as it is not clear whether there is a connector for the soldering handle.
A board has arrived, which is crucified and quartz and connector under the battery. Battery and socket for the soldering pen in the kit.
Here's a look at the review itself
Ordered here.
There are no batteries in the kit. Will there be many downsides if I use a battery-free one?
Or is it the whole station?
And what's the problem with putting the battery on 3B???
Without the battery will not tick the clock, to be honest the real benefit of them did not feel, lie godlessly, tried to calibrate, tired, left this idea
The problem with the battery is because I don't have it. Weekend. The brother is being drilled now. And then sort out how many cases. It could be a month of another. So I wondered if everything would work there except for hours.
The indicator will display the temperature, without the display of the watch. Look here for the comments, where there was a picture
I will pay for mail in Russia, or in many major cities I can pick up through friends.
A=?
B=?
C=?
D=?
E=?
F=?
G=?
H=?
Thank you in advance!
but in a week's time, 2.1S should come, if it does, I can try it.
If no one's measured before, write to me in a week's time.
The following has already been answered, but if it won't be difficult, 2.1S won't hurt either.
only 2.1S is better because it's a 1.3"
A=61.95 mm, B=9.20 mm, C=27.50 mm, D=8.15 mm, E=30.00 mm, F=7.00 mm, G=15.00 mm, H=15.25 mm
aliexpress.com/store/product/STM32-2-1S-OLED-Controller-3-in-1-Hot-Air-Gun-Soldering-Station-DIY-Electric-Power/1486111_32801879362.html
that is, and sting for them
differ in diameter of the hole
But even on Tao the price is not humane
By the pomp offinding this store,maybe that will help
Did you manage to find something suitable? I'm also looking for outlines, but so far there is nothing concrete to say.
Here the 5th day went - the inginer to see in the binge ... :)
And all the time, questions like "you're going to buy"?
Asked about the instructions to the controller and the little things there are questions, asked to help run this shit ...
In response, incomprehensible excuses of some kind and like "well you knew what you are buying, it's DIY kit and need serious engineering knowledge." I was lying around just))))
And in the end, in general came an offer to remove the video and publish with the argument that they want to raise the sale on the site ... I fell into the fallout. No, well, I may not mind, but you, please, help me at least set up your product first...
Took their handle FX-9501, had to finish it myself, spent 24 hours in misunderstandings why the controller does not see and does not heat the sting ... It turned out to be an annoying joint - the inner plastic cartridge when inserting the sting fell into the handle and contact of the kirdyk))
On Tao it has been on sale for a long time. And let it be cheaper, in the area of US$500, only whether it is needed for such a price
Now I looked at how the liner in the handle Hakko-950 is connected, and it turns out that minus the power sting and the general sensors is one wire - black. And the body (green) is connected only to the body of the stinger. How critical? Leave or remake?
And also, sancho1971, tell us about the pasting of the display. How warmed, at what temperature it was
Thank you
The common wire and the sting case are connected
For the pasting of the display, please contact Nimnul1979,it shifted the screen
How many wiring do you have in the cord?
If 5 and the connector to the soldering station remade like mine
I've been ordering for a long time. First ordered a controller on a blue board with the inscription HAKKO.
Here's this:
Then I ordered the case thinking that it would be suitable))
Here's this:
As a result, when the case came, the front panel did not come.
But by that time for other needs ordered and not useful in my body: aliexpress.com/item/1-piece-free-shipping-aluminium-housing-case-for-electronics-junction-box-silver-color-and-golden-color/32588838859.html
I decided to make the station building out of it. I may be too big, but I'm happy. The dissed panels cut out the holes, not as neat as wanted but more so. First the hole under the display wanted to paste the org with glass from the back. But the unestheticness of this decision pushed him to abandon it.
As a result, remembering that there is a laminator and the film rolled the entire front panel in the film on the laminator, it turned out though a completely transparent but protective window for the screen.
The place on the front is a lot and the power switch decided to take out on it.
The front and back panel is attached to the hull through rubber pads which have a burtic that acts as a non-sliding support throughout the station.
The power supply was ordered by the people, but came a little different, it already had a Y capacitor. And the planar elements on the bottom of the board were moved to the top. The weekend terminal was put on. The wire to the controller was replaced by a little thicker, took a piece of cable for the soldering iron. And the wire for the controller fell directly into the power supply. No need to have a heap of connections in vain to have)!
The power supply is attached to the body on plastic supports with snaps from the PC case.
The wires from the controller to the soldering iron were shortened a little, so that they would not stick out.
The battery-powered switcher was found on some old modem from the laptop. Sold it to the pad for the 2032 batteries, inserted the battery and put it in the shrink that would inadvertently not shorten what.
In general, as it turned out so I got))))) Dog in work has not checked yet, did not finish the soldering iron. Koich also ordered 3 different)))
It is clear that the sting is not wetted by the sing completely, going to the ball
BC2 sting with HAKKO Lead Free
I tried to sponge, roll a drop in a canifol, on a spit ... didn't get any better.
Calibration is evil
ordered the T12-J02 and came -
aliexpress.com/store/product/T12-KU-high-shaped-tip-T12-Series-Soldering-Iron-Tips/2954088_32802667148.html
https://world.taobao.com/item/523796913852.htm
aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-set-T12-K-T12-ILS-T12-BC2-T12-KU-Solder-Iron-Tips-T12-series-for/32801911172.html
mysku.ru/blog/taobao/48863.html
read, criticize
it is with Tao
https://world.taobao.com/item/543265860826.htm
Photos from Chinese sales
1 Adjusting the temperature and scrolling the menu does not work correctly ie if I twist the handle to the right the temperature decreases and if in the left it increases the same when scrolling in the menu
2It's that I don't have a soldering iron yet, plugged in without it, so here on the screen there is that inscription "error" then the exposed temperature and so constantly!
Guys how can you solve problems, and is it worth opening a dispute, on a refund!?
2
The pictures are greeted
Connected from the lab power supply, just check! As for the inscription should kind of burn the inscription constantly error, and I change the error that temperature, every second changes!
carefully review the installation, there is not a quality ration, it is desirable to wash the whole flux with alcohol
take a photo with the problem and to the seller, knock down the "grandmother" through the dispute
The only joint that was found on the chip two tracks soldered!
Is it a snot?
Try to clean up...
The encoder is responsible for the direction of rotation...
Where the 2nd is the button.
better still wait for the handles and check with the cartridge
Narkotik_7468,has the problem been solved?
and the question to everyone is, do everyone at 2.1s have this nonsense with an encoder?
This is the second time here in a musk.
The ones I brought with Tao, no one complained.
it can be sorted out somehow corrected, or only another encoder to buy? what model would you recommend?
I wrote you a face about the activation of the firmware, can you send the code?
Maybe in the evening, as I come from work...
I looked, it's all right.
if it writes into the external memory, it can banal 8 foot chip broken ...
And if there is no vigil sting, why is there any external memory? was not enough internal or he can not record inside?
more questions than I can ever treat in my skull :)
What does it mean to have worked and stopped?
Watch carefully the food chain
(in the review itself, this picture is clickable)
Check the voltage at the entrance 12-24B, after U2 - 3.3B.
What did you do to him?
More information...
Connected from the lab unit, the cracodils hooked the controller to the power source and when put on the table the controller accidentally shortened the 24v lodged on one of the legs encoder (on the tight side where three)! How to properly check the stabilizer, where to put the pike?
U2 stabilizer (ordinary linear as CRENC), date in review is, look and check
Change the controller, stitch the firmware, as - there is a review and will be happy to you
PS at the bottom of the message has the inscription "Edit" - click it and correct the comment, then save
have to cut the tracks on the board. Look at the description of STM32 on what leg the food is set and gently or lift it from the board or cut the track to the stabilizer. And measure the voltages of the new
And in what magaz you bought your miracle with a confused encoder?
Opened the argument, the money returned!
As I understood in controllers V2.0 and V2.1S wake up from Sleep lifting (shaking) soldering iron there is no, only a button?
And yet, I'm completely tormented with a sleep sensor stained, if I have a stand stinging down how to wash this sensor, golden foot in the direction of the sting, right or on the turn?
Thank you in advance.
I want to change the balls for mercury, that's how to properly arrange the sensor
01. Standby, Mode
Thank you.
But on the first trouble, the menu is also on the car, the solder goes to sleep, but from the sleeper does not come out, with what I have two controllers and behave the same.
What could be the problem?
That's the scheme I've been collecting.
It seems that in the V2.1S version there is no such function as a way out of hibernation with a shaking soldering iron or I don't understand something.
Happy owners of the V2.1S controller have everyone so?
My mistake was to prioritize Sleep, the Chinese were confused, confused with the names of the functions.
Thank you again.
firmware 2.11, display 1.3" quality is also at altitude. Satisfied with all 100%, everything started with "half-kick"
There are a few questions on the topic.
Gathered PS on st32 v2.1s took in different stores and controller and handle.
The handle (cartridge) of the old model and for the termistor places are not marked, on different schemes (termistor) is put differently tried several options.
But the difference did not notice in all cases works normally and even without it did not see the difference.
There should be a difference and what scheme is correct, where to properly put the termistor, provided that the cartridge for it is not provided.
On the cartridge instead of with one jumper, maybe it doesn't make a difference?
I don't bowl too much in electronics, so don't kick.
mysku.ru/blog/taobao/45851.html#comment2010489
It's all properly drawn there.
you can nail the white to the green, just be right, as the black and green on the board close
and how to Dmitriy_1980 - to say contacts on the liner
Now there is a question of precise adjustment, but of the meters there is only a multimeter (DT9208A) with a thermopar, but about the accuracy of the readings of this something I'm not quite sure. How accurate are the multimeters and is it worth trusting their testimony, or leave it as it is? The controller shows the exposed and the temperature of the sting exactly, well, 1C can jump tudu here. It's a complete mess.
boiling water of 100 degrees
- melt water in the ice of 0 degrees
In the photo above I saw something like thick scotch and saw a slicing of hetinax additional plates (for attaching to the board through the native holes at the edges) to be installed in the native slits of the case. And who's so much more sn intentioned?
and is there someone from Moscow who periodically buys on Tao (it is possible to face it)?
- you can put "ears" from the textolite (as I did in a soldering hairdryer)
- you can set on racks (capron or brass)
- you can install the sites of mounting self-adhesive, and to them screeds
it is unlikely, you have intermediaries in Russia apred, prices are fighting ...
- it is your "ears" that I remember, apparently, I will do the same
How can you stick such legs to the body? do the holes under the screws not really
- the last pads from experience have disgusting scotch, it is necessary to immediately clean it and sculpt the same 3M, did so in the car for the fastening of the wire sv ante (but here the screeds will not comilfo a little in this case:) )
about delivery, so I hope that someone buys himself periodically, well, and join him :)
There are no carriers with an adequate price, the intermediaries in the region are brazen that the price of Ali seems like a fairy tale and there is no reason for Tao no longer, except the interesting thing is only there ...
aliexpress.com/item/Electric-Soldering-Iron-Tips-Welding-Handle-STM32-2-1S-OLED-T12-B2-T12-BC2-BL-KU/32778062699.html
mysku.ru/blog/taobao/45851.html#comment1955124
In this design, the case for $2.45, in the design with a hairdryer already for $11.17. Popular T12-d case also from $11
Although the exterior of the case look the same...
What's wrong with the $2.45 case?
there's a hull in the afair collection.
At the price of yu- equally comes out
Yours, although it has an LED display, but has nothing to do with the reviewed here.
I insert a link to the controller, but it is removed.
I didn't see any pictures of this board, I didn't grope it with my hands.
In the month that you've posted your identical posts in all the reviews of soldering stations, you've had almost nothing answered, so no one knows what's wrong with your fee. Look for info on Chinese forums, maybe you can find something.
According to the controller reviewed here the extreme version of 2.1S, then the Chinese stopped development.
All very primitive, although the percentage of STM32, but the firmware is completely different, the bases are stingy, it seems that they took the old "people's" controller PS on the STC and converted to STM32-OLED.
https://world.taobao.com/item/529249246589.htm
Set full, photos already posted
The new STM32 OSIDA controller arrives, there are 4 languanges you can choose in the controller,
Russian, Korean, English, Chinese,
The link is here,
aliexpress.com/store/product/STM32-OLED-V3-5-OLED-T12-Soldering-Station-Temperature-Control-Board-1-3-Size-Screen-OLED/918038_32822843496.html SPM = 2114.12010615.0.0.NbEog8
And I ended up on Ali ordered myself a Stm32 OLED T12 controller V2.1s
Meaning to give for this non-coentroler $38.61 if the normal 2.1S on Tao costs $16.12 q delivery less than $1 (set weighs 80g)
But I eventually ordered the 2.1s version on Aliexpress for 1542.46 rubles :)
While the price for Tao would have been 1540 rubles without payment of delivery.
aliexpress.com/store/product/STM32-OLED-V3-5-OLED-T12-Soldering-Station-Temperature-Control-Board-1-3-Size-Screen-OLED/918038_32822843496.html
Nothing to do with the controller considered here, it's independent development.
calibration on the 1st point, the base is stinging no, the thermosensor in the handle is not - it seems that adapted the people's controller under STM32 and OLED.
The only advantage is the Russian language
Sanya (sancho1971) helped without any questions. Thank you very much!
Good time of day!
Guys, please tell me, who knows where to put the watch battery on this controller?
And what battery do you need to buy?
Thanks in advance :)
Battery on 3V as on motherboards, laptops.
for example - I have a prie pic-61 (still stocks with a scoop) - a solder 270-290 degrees
https://world.taobao.com/item/555099575877.htm
I don't know if sheepskin is worth dressing?
it all depends which mode is selected in menu 01. Standby - Mode : Auto (automatic), Shake (vibration), Switch (switch), Manual (manual)
aliexpress.com/item/-/32822843496.html
Dmitriy_1980 correctly written, take 2.1S with a 1.3 inch screen and rejoice.
I would have ordered it earlier, but there were few sellers on it, and I have never encountered tao, and I am afraid of it... now, like, and on a lot of people who sell, but here's another question, a lot cheaper will come out on tao than on Ali, taking into account all sorts of intermediaries, if you collect the full set?
Take 2.1S with a 1.3-inch screen
aliexpress.com/store/product/STM32-OLED-Controller-Screen-Size-1-3-Handle-Station-T12-Soldering-Iron-Tips-Electronic-Soldering-Iron/918038_32814484017.html
and do not fool your head, but here the body of plastic and liner in the handle is worse, but not expensive and 4 more stings in the set (you can communicate with the seller and choose your kit)
you can also find with a dural hull, but it will be more expensive
Well, if you want - buy with the Russian, sort out the work, find out all - and - do a review
P.S. I with the Russian would not even take as a gift - the slag is full
Power blocks also have several options...
The first two are just the size of the case...
aliexpress.com/item/Ksger-T12-120/32816213209.html
aliexpress.com/item/-/32809887017.html
aliexpress.com/item/KSGER-Power-Supply-Board-DIY-Kits-72W24V4A-Switching-AC-DC-Voltage-Converter-T12-Welding-Tools-Electronic/32815982089.html
aliexpress.com/store/product/Power-Supply-Board-72W24V3A-Switching-AC-DC-Voltage-Converter-T12-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-Station-Iron-Built/1486111_32734341451.html
In the first promise 24B and 5A
the third is the "people's BP" on 24B 4(6)A, here, it is true a long time ago, kirich it was well protested. Used it in his first soldering stations
The switch is not on the hairdryer, the included should be at the top. :)
Added to the review.
Drawn in sPlan.
Thank you!
Added to the review.
By the way, the little BP is already a kayak, that's a quick seller fell off ...
I'll say it again.
constantly taking the T12 sting on Tao inthis store
SUHAN are good, proven hakKO analogues
I mean, die?
Or missing from sales?
but the controller is already without a battle in the lot...
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.522f8d973XlDej&id=529249246589&_u=12p8d1h6e7df
2.1S controller with 1.3" - full kit
Psu
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.522f8d973XlDej&id=546700922534&_u=12p8d1h68354
24B 5A, just in this 130mm case
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.522f8d973XlDej&id=539392658616&_u=12p8d1h6124e
With this pad 3 in 1
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.522f8d973XlDej&id=536927327500&_u=12p8d1h669cc
I drive regularly;-)
The seller returned $25 (the reason for the discrepancy between the encoder and the hull as in the TS)
Photo controller
Total: $27, subject to delivery
aliexpress.com/item/STM32-OLED-V3-5-OLED-Screen-Size-1-3-T12-Soldering-Station-Temperature-Control-Board-Electric/32821308037.html
Base sting no, calibration at one point, thermosensor on the board, not in the handle (where it places), measures the weather on Mars.
In this review mikas have already warned not to buy this UG.
Here in the comments I also wrote that it sucks ...
PS of course, this "solder controller" has a very essential q - The Russian language in the menu, which absolutely does not affect the quality of rations.
Second,
how the thermopapa works I will not tell you, do not understand why you need a thermosensor and compensation cold solder, so you do not need it. If you want to understand - read the theory.
Third,
I do not intend to respond to rudeness and rudeness. I'm used to interacting with adequate people.
It won't get worse, I'm an optimist - I think there's nowhere worse...
And the power elements need to look at the boundary parameters ...
will be a suf or you write untruths ....?
understand the modes and features, and then compare its functionality with the proposed in this review
Better yet, write your review. We will read and comment.
Sensor software: The cold-sleeping compensation sensor is placed as close as possible to the transition of the TP---meglyde wires, in order to eliminate the difference in measurements, in our case in the handle near the pins of the sting.
The fact that you lost the Chinese and returned $25 (I honestly do not believe it) it does not apply to the original cost, in the store from this price has not changed.
If you take on Tao kit for self-assembly, it will turn out (given delivery in China)
- controller 1.3" 2.1S white - 118-yu
- liner in the handle - 17.5yuana
- pen 900 black - 6yana
- wire 5 lived 1.5m black - 6yana
- aluminium 130mm set - 73
Network pad 3v1 - 3.5
Power supply 24B 5A - 39
The final price of the set is $263.
Delivery in the area of $10
Therefore, I will write again that I bring to everyone under the order, as kits and related goods, mainly for residents of Ukraine, although once and for the Russian made a purchase.
aliexpress.com/store/product/STM32-OLED-Controller-Screen-Size-1-3-Handle-Station-T12-Soldering-Iron-Tips-Electronic-Soldering-Iron/918038_32814484017.html
everything is already a pancake
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.166.43f098a8ILlerJ&id=550753459460&ns=1&abbucket=16#detail
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c.w4002-694311170.19.5a9ed3eczoni1c&id=555998617127
It's just under T12 and T2
Used a liner with contacts similar to the one used in the 9501 handle
in the review a similar pen is presented in the photo
I'm not arguing, it's cool, but the price isn't very $85.00.
if these pens appear on Ali, I have no idea how much they will cost there ;-))
Plastic case. Like seen the handles to choose from with the data? Sets.
But the regular fishing rod IMHO easily finishes to the Bacon.
And who told you that 2.0 and other controllers can't run on batteries?
Carefully read the description of the menu, learn a lot of new ;-)
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z0d.6639537.1997196601.22.7a7986d2RoG3ls&id=549317924050
Similar...
Of course this is to some extent compensated by the relative cheapness and that they at least try to constantly that new :)
Support heating core: — Three-wire thermocouple heating core (JBC)
— Second-line thermocouple heating core (T12)
— Four-wire thermal resistance heating core (936 original)
— Four-wire thermocouple heating core (936 made in China)
■ three sleep modes: vibration sleep, switch sleep, sleep button
■ two kinds of operation: two keys a rotary encoder temperature control mode; four key mode
■ quick temperature adjustable (can save three kinds of standby interface, press the Enter key to quickly switch)
Temperature stability: ± 1 degree
■ adjustable temperature range wide: 100 degrees -480 degrees
■ Wide supply voltage: single DC voltage (18V-39V)
■ MOS over-current, over-temperature protection
■ audible alarm and prompt
■ with ten kinds of head calibration parameters storage and selection
■ with a heating core manual software correction (zero, the sensor temperature coefficient)
■ with a manual iron software correction (metal heat transfer coefficient compensation correction)
■ PID can be manually adjusted and saved (affect heating time, temperature stability)
■ Automatically save after temperature change: automatically save after 4s after changing the setting temperature
■ external temperature probe, easy to calibrate the temperature of the soldering iron, using K-type thermocouple accuracy of 1%
■ Adjustable temperature step (1-50 degrees)
■ adjustable temperature alarm limit (0-200 degrees)
■ Vibration sleep time adjustable (0-99 minutes) Set to 0 to enter the switch hibernation mode
■ Automatic shutdown time adjustable (0-99 minutes)
■ with temperature lock, set the lock
■ password protection, protection of the setting parameters
■ Restore factory settings (password required)
■ Chinese and English two language options
Standard: 5 small power plug, 4 plug with temperature compensation, 3 plug, 2 plug, encoder, vibration switch, one each encoder button. Thermocouple wire 0.5 meters. (Key version needs to contact customer service)
For the hairdryer there is another controller from the same developer
here's a review on it
And here everything is much more complicated and interesting
item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.92.4a13b702b2ecz9&id=560145984592&ns=1&abbucket=11#detail
Greedy AliExpress Chinese have dropped the price. It used to be 2.1S cost $30, now it's 20. It's a bit of a shame, broke this Lisa to reset the price, did not agree, and when already bought at a sale in another store knocking down the price coupons, on you, and she lowered the price.
It remains to wait for the price of the hairdryer controller to fall.
may on Tao cheaper ;-)
P.S. By the way with the people's power supply sometimes noticed on the screen of the station artifacts, after the replacement of the power supply - never it was not!
i am sancho1971
Jura - Nimnul1979
Thank you in advance.
Honestly read all the branches about STM32 2.1s controllers. I now have a t12 whale of the very first version with 3 digits on the screen. I want to make an upgrade, but with minimal investment. BP so-called "people's." On BG with coupons I want to take STM32 2.1s But judging by the photo in the set there is no termistor. The question is: can I adapt the handle from the old t12 to this controller? What model of termistor is needed if you need it?
Thanks for the answers.
Next what you need: GX12-5 connector (you probably have 3 contacts), a 5-bed wire, a 10k Om thermals (or a drop with a tod or in glass as a stabilizer), a position sensor (ball or mercury)
Try it if anything - ask
;-)
Found in the back of a couple of thermals of another kind, so these are really about 10k. Now I think to change or not. In principle, the temperature on the stings is accurate.
Realistically MUST be exactly 10kOm
Green from BP comp?
SHAKE mode is a vibration sensor, SW-200D or mercurial (tracking changes in contact status).
SWITCH mode is the end. Hard binding to the state of contact. And when the soldering iron in the stand, the end should be closed, and when the soldering iron in his hand - open. And no other way.
I immediately thought of the mode SWITCH and SHAKE differ only by tracking the frequency of the sensor trigger.
You just have to specify how many seconds a day they're running or lagging behind the real-time clock in the soldering station and clicking on the encoder. Then confirm the "Confirm" or cancel the "Cancel" adjustment. If the clock is more than 60 seconds away, then adjust the move for 60 seconds first, confirm the adjustment, and then adjust the move again for the remaining number of seconds. For example, if the clock runs for 80 seconds a day, then first adjust the error on the "60S", confirm the "Confirm" and then adjust again on the "20S".
To be honest, I played with this function for a long time (wrote down the value on a piece of paper, corrected), but never achieved the desired result and spat on this function.
On the next controller, instead of quartz, I will put a handkerchief on the DS3231 as a 32768Hz support generator. The STM itself allows for external hour-long synchronization.
Fee 2.1s if that.
And yesterday I got another one of the same. I started to stitch and it turned out that despite the fact that the boards look VERY similar, but the crucifixion of programming points is different (V-G-D-C) - had to redo the "tail" of the ST-Link programmer, which he did before.
And by the way, according to the information of which I have, the board version 2.00 from the developer zhonggx80 (aka CNC) does not exist.
There are five boards of original versions:
Ver1.0
Ver1.1
Ver2.0
Ver2.0S
Ver2.1S
Especially since the price for 1.3"OLED $15 is very normal.
I came to the center of Russia in 12 days and was surprised.
The main thing that works and sold out)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
1. Expose the exact time on the display (let's say on the Internet).
2. At the same time, in 24 hours we compare and introduce an amendment ratio of difference.
Do you want to re-install the right time again or leave it as it is?
3. Another day, if the time again is not accurate to introduce a new amendment.
Perhaps my mistake was that every time I entered the adjustment, I put the exact time again?
Shouldn't you have touched him?
If you're in a hurry, for example, for 5 seconds, you need to enter 5S.
If you are 5 seconds behind, you need to enter -5S.
It will be necessary to remove the motion sensor in the handle.
The passage of the motion sensor from the board to connect with a metal stand.
On the cartridge/sting casing hangs minus.
When you're in contact (when we put the solder on the stand) the stinger with the iron of the stand immediately turns on the mode of dropping the temperature to a given parameter (without waiting as when the motion sensor works).
Something like Metcal, but there is no contact, and the magnet unmagnetizes the sting and induction immediately cuts off.
-- Pros: Immediately there is a drop in temperature if poked solder in the hold.
Cons: You need to connect the stand or the body, or pull the shoelace to it.
Well, though insignificant, but there will be a heat exchange between the sting and the stand. (It is necessary to check almost- whether the controller will not toss the feeder because of the greater cooling of the cartridge when in contact with the metal of the stand)
In sleep mode, when the display is turned on and on the display there is a moving screensaver with temperature-turn in any direction (without pressing) the encoder handle-appears on the menu display with the date, day of the week, hours (if there is a battery and pre-installation) and temperature.
aliexpress.com/store/product/KSGER-Power-Supply-Board-T12-Electronic-Tools-Soldering-Iron-Station-120W-24V-5A-Switching-AC-DC/1486111_32816213209.html
aliexpress.com/store/product/AC-DC-108-AC-110-220-DC-24-4-5a/1507149_32833631738.html
Enough from 3-4A, no more pity or controller do not need.
More powerful BP is quite good in reserve and temperature.
The power supply at 24V/3A (72W) is more than enough to operate the station. Maximum 3A stinger consumes only at the moment of initial heating or at warming warm-up heat test site and then not always. So chasing a very powerful BP makes no sense.
BP on links is more than enough for a soldering station...
BUT if you think you won't have enough, buy one for 24V/10A
Tell me, maybe who heard saw, fake or still came out a new stitch?
aliexpress.com/item/Ksger-T12-STM32-OLED-V3-0-DIY-fx9501/32851333426.html
Can store special promotes kits with a new version of firmware and dumps prices
This power supply is 0-24Volt 0-4A and the soldering station of the respected AKA Electra on Attiny 24 with the cheapest soldering iron on a thermal pair in one case from CD ROM.
I'm going to put out a PHOTO VERSION of my idea, as if a sketch project...
I have a personal question to the author of the review about the acquisition of soldering iron at Taobao. On Ali prices are unrealistic, and we sell twice cheaper than Ali. An adequate price was found on Taobao. I collect three-piece of these solders for my grandchildren to get to the useful, and to distract a little from the mobiles. :) If you have the opportunity, then beacon in the face of the starwiseman2@gmail.com All the others please share circuitry, firmware and, if possible, the key generator.
I will do it for anyone, but after "paying all the membership dues," as S. Altov said, "remained without means of subsistence." The only way out is to do what is possible, including BP on 3-4A. (And the most interesting to say.) Experience is on pulsed BP, and still no matter how much the fee. I think it makes sense to do immediately for the aluminum case under the grooves and sizes 120mm. And in the case of CD ROM, which just lying around, will fit the folk Chinese 24B BP 3-4A for $5, and many other useful things. On a machine with CNC from a piece of aluminum or plastic it will be possible to make a universal panel for the station in the case from CD ROM. So do it yourself! Perhaps someone will be interested in such a people's budget project. I'll share all the work.
Can you advise or what it was called?
it's just no longer available and the name is not found
I'll look at the edgings, the sps.
bought here
After the diode bridge and electrolyte there will be 32-34B
need a trance on 18-19B - diode bridge 50B 5A (can be higher) - electrolyte 4700 (50 (63)B (possible more capacity)
if the amp by 5 is a good basis for BP
or 55B 5A with winding switching
or 2/32B 5A
I thought you had two windings of 24B 5A.
Here's how the straightener was implemented on the 936 controller sharpened under the T12 sting.
For a hairdryer 2.5A more than, for soldering iron - not enough.
Make on the basis of this trance linear LBP with switching windings, will turn out under load in the area of 48-50B and 2-2.5A
You can combine the windings in a parallel, and at the exit we get 24 in 5A.
There is a great desire, but absolutely no time. Soon I do not promise, but to collect, generalize and organize it is necessary.
But here's the question, it's just me it plugs all over with a little more heat, but even a drop of solder more and the station ceases to cope, she writes that the temperature is flat and pumps only 20 percent, but it is impossible to drink. Sin on substandard stings, which may not have time to give heat, but nowhere to see such complaints, is only lucky to me, although on Ali sold in the top sales.
What kind of sting?
the sting itself calibrated?
there is an opportunity to check with stings from another store (may rent from someone someone's friend to take) or your sting on another PS
In principle, this should not be...
I did the experiment, I'm not sure of its correctness of course, one slant "K" poked into the stainless-steel plate with a solder, in a free puddle leaned thermopa, and in this state there is a drawdown of degrees in 30-50, but the station does not see it, and writes that the temperature is 250, well, and its loading is about 20%.
Or as sancho1971 said - you either need to find a stinger at someone to try or what is better person with a similar station and try to work it ...
There are no such acquaintances. It seems to have seen above the reference to the sting, with no tao experience, but over time I will overpower and order something more branded.
It came to mind when the water boils, air bubbles are formed around the sting, and the air, as we know, the thermal conductivity is not very. So it turns out that the tip of the sting does not have time to give heat to the water because of bubbles, and if deeper to drown, due to the increase in area, the heat is also increased.
Does anyone have the opportunity to poke the "K" sting into anything with a heat drain and poke a heat-parsu in the working area?
Maybe the power supply is weak. On the assembly they send the weakest option, imho. Such:
The sting had previously been sold out, although there was already a point welding.
Let's try to compare the heating time.
Initial data: controller 2.1S, no sting gauges (there is nothing to accurately measure the temperature of the sting at the moment), included the sleep mode when turning on the station, the ambient temperature - 22.5 degrees, the working temperature - 340, the sting of the solder nothing touches, the start of the heating - pressing on the encoder, the end of the heating - the beep.
T12-K sting: 12.5 sec, 100% shows only 6 seconds, then the power drops and heats up.
T12-D52: 10 sec, 100% shows 4 seconds, then less.
If necessary, pour the video process.
The sting is a type of KR-calibrated,
The sleep mode is included when the station is turned on, the ambient temperature is 25 degrees, the working temperature is 340, the soldering sting is nothing to do, the start of the heating is the press on the encoder, the end of the heating is a beep.
100% shows 10.5 seconds,
11 seconds - beep, power drops and warms up.
The video of the heating process is above...
I have HW Version, SW Version.
Or, it's a pity, you have to buy a sample of the sting KR or KL, and there is krz.
Measured the voltage drop at the exit of the BP at the warm-up - minuscule, about 0.025 B, measured the drop of voltage on the other side of the wire with the separation, at the entrance to the controller - almost 0.2 V. Dropped the wires with the corrode and drank without eating a wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Now the voltage drop at the controller's input is the same as on the BP.
But the heating rate with the K sting remained the same, the response to the stinging in the water remained about the same - the situation has not changed.
My controller is HW, SW.
Find more version differences.
I guess we're going to have to switch. But in addition to the firmware itself, as far as I understand, you will need to activate it?
But the st-link on his hands is not to check, it is necessary to wait for the Chinese to walk.
The firmware is here.
And from 2.10 to 2.11 and from 2.11 to 2.12 - no.
But that's not accurate.
With activation helped Denis aka salamatin?
No one else has a keigen and the algorithm is unknown?
Without seeing it hard to judge, with the video it would be more obvious.
snaiper
February 14, 2018, 2:02 p.m.
Yes - copper is the best conductor, but not so much. Or do I want a lot and do not compare at all?
There are similar comparisons in the e-day, look from 5:00
For myself came to the conclusion that you need better stings, playing will not help, the station does not see a drop in temperature, because in the place of the temperature sensor equals exposed, and in the working area is significantly smaller. Yes, there is less than a centimeter, and so with 3 stings, just K mass and spread. It will be the Chinese New Year to try my luck with other stings.
It would be nice to make a method of testing sting and make a certain base. The more responsive/thermal conductive - the better.
I still have the T12-KR sting with Ebay. And the ST-link still does not come for re-stitching.
But compare you.
As for the technique, I do not imagine a simple repeated technique with high accuracy of measurements, but the stingers can vary from batch to batch or from different sellers visually having 100% similarity.
On the label of the package is the inscription Hakko. Clearly not the original, as the price was a few dollars.
T12-KR: 10 sec, 100% shows 7.5 seconds, then less.
There is a clear increase in the phase of 100% power in relation to the total heating time. The conclusion is that it all depends on the sting.
PS: But the firmware will also have to be changed and checked.
aliexpress.com/item/10Pcs-SET-T12-B-T12-D24-T12-C4-ILS-JL02-KU-K-BC2-ILS-BC1-Solder/32799109111.html
RG2:F8C7
It is very necessary...
someone else's dump won't help you much.
I have it clean, the activation code I have calculated, but it apparently because of this reason does not fit.
You need to fill it and then enter the already calculated code.
I don't have a real controller. I wanted to collect it on my own scheme from the Internet.
To begin with, I assembled stm32-oled-eeprom-onkender. Fortunately, I had these things in my possession.
I've got the code counted. But it didn't. Now I'm trying to figure out why. I'm friends with the debager,
i2c can analyze. So far suspicion of incorrect content eeprom. Maybe the reason is different...
The author of the firmware tried in every way to protect himself from fakes. You can measure the physical parameters
on the controller's legs, if it doesn't match the original (for example, on the SWDIO line, the load hangs), then don't accept the code... The real soldering controller I ordered, as will come will sort out. At least I'll put my stm in there and think further.
Where to throw?
In the build:
And in the collected form:
STM32F103C8 microcontroller instead of STM32F101CB. But the firmware got into it. The firmware check with the contents of the file passes. Looks like it's all 128kbyth flush.
I have the same processor - 103
And what scheme were collected? SDA-A1 SCL-A0 should be!
The program writes and reads it, looked at usbee's logical analyzer.
Went the Debugger Keil on the code ... Found different procedures and points for code verification,
And then you're putting messages on the screen... but he never did it to the end. Dropped the research before the arrival of the original or the purchase of the correct 24s08. specially followed her to go shopping lazily.
The controller of the original came, the correct 24s08 bought. I read an article about successful hacking and keigen... In any case, I want to repeat the hacking yourself. I hope to get back to that later.
I was tormented to change my tongue afterwards... From Chinese...
P.S. I tried it, but also had to re-calibrate all the stings and set the settings :(, as there is not only a change in the language of the interface and the initial initialization ... The truth is said: --"Don't interfere with the technique of working!!!!"
How does the soldering temperature readings don't lie?
Polish theme on the subject of mosfets used
here's a version of the scheme
The wires in the handle and the connectors itself swung?
Check the snot on the board, the correctness of the swing...
Something recently KSGER began to tuft to send
aliexpress.com/item/Ksger-T12-STM32-1-3-OLED-DIY-fx9501/32844566015.html
There's a lot of information, connection schemes...
At v2.00 - plume to the connector
On v2.01 - connector in the fee
And it's all the same version 2.0
If everything is collected (and I understand, you bought already assembled station) and does not work properly - make a claim to the store.
body, soldering iron, BP - everything's kind of working...
Then try to re-ask the controller itself, maybe a software glitch
that's how it is,the firmware themselves are on Yandex and gugul discs
Returning only a third of the amount for a device that doesn't actually perform its functions is a swine, of course.
I myself faced these changes not very long ago - for the purchased device with damaged corrosi with general received a denial of compensation and mediation confirmed the decision.
I do the right thing, that now I buy on AliExpress only that can not be bought elsewhere.
although they can award a partial refund without a refund, or a full refund.
Consider that it is advantageous for you to send back at your own expense, or to buy a stm-ku for a couple of shares.
See the U3 operating room (scheme at the end of the review)
s.s.
soon I'll be the owner of the station, too,
ordered the station set.
Judging by the display connector it's for version 2.0
Did you draw it himself?
you can send a file with a scheme to mail sancho-1971@i.ua, or the quality of the picture is not very, I will add at the end of the review
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjtnb_Uwr_ZAhVGCSwKHSeLB78QFggnMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinesechip.com%2FchipFile%2F2015-07%2FSGM8551XN-18456-0.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1FZn6b_M7K5zZT0W2SIUJW
Buy
radioremont.com/product/sgm8551xn/
Then such a question, is there at least one soldering station or soldering iron, which IS NOT TO DO?
Bakon is already on T13 and that in it something whistles, then sparks, then all ok, lottery.
T12 DIY can send STC can STM32, and the Chinese sting is already burning at the base and the basket where the cartridge shoves, spoils.
TS100 well, I will use 1 stinger, but it is necessary to collectively BP from 400r to 1.5-2k - the cost of the soldering 3k (it seems that the original eminent whatever you take)
Yihua/CXG/A-BF and cheaper analogues without a takeaway BP are based on 900 stings that have not the best contact with the heater. Or make a paste that can lead to a burst heater.
Here I am not a radio lover, but I want a normal soldering iron, or I have 2 pieces, bison on 60VT, which is warm so that it is not possible to drink, and some of Obi, on old technologies, you can drink, but to touch the phone inside is not worth it, and I need to drink an audio break.
What to do, who to take? Spit and take on the 900s and not steaming refinements?
Another problem, wires 1.2m me a little, I do not have a normal workplace, need 1.7-2 meters of wire in the end.
If you can not afford the option offered above, then buy something easier.
And again, looking at what for you the process of re-cutting:
- if the hands are from the right place, finishing turns into a fascinating activity to improve the existing product
"If ... you know, you don't even have to start, it won't be good.
Again, without knowing your financial capabilities and relationships with the amphibian, it is difficult to offer anything...
I get a soldering head once every 2-4 weeks, I use it for about an hour.
In my plans to try on HTC One X and Redmi Note 3 Pro to warm up the solder on the legs of the audio game. On HOX exactly have cracks in the solder, on RN3P did not notice, but the trouble consider as the first phone. I do not want to pay the service for the requested 3k, I am ready to try to repair, the small thing had to fall. Total I believe that we need a solder with thermal adjustment, and the ability to warm the connector case because there and the body and the contacts themselves need to warm.
Hands, well, I'm not saying that I'm a crustacean, I successfully changed the miriks on mice, replaced the audio connector on the column, ploughed the protection board at the small acc for the copter.
Experiencing problems, it's I have little room for tool storage, at the bottom wrote fx-888d, it's definitely nowhere to put. Bacon can still be stuffed, and T12 although they with their cables take up not a lot of space.
That's not even know, maybe it's easier for CXG to take and build up a stupid wire.
I don't know what's got. There's some finishes everywhere.
t12.omegahg.com/keygen.htm
Ai is not nice to copy, the author of this article mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/58619.html
And here's the whole process: habrahabr.ru/post/350602/
I applaud standing up!!!
A lot of work has been done, well done!!!
The work isn't finished yet. Moving on ;)
The Portuguese bought the old version on stm32 and decided to write his firmware:
www.ptdreamer.com/
github.com/PTDreamer/stm32_soldering_iron_controller.git
There's almost nothing useful :(
although the Portuguese may increase it.
You don't plan to change the temperature at three calibration points, for example, 350 degrees. Who is shooting at 450 degrees, it is scary even at the time of calibration to rape the sting.
The calibration points can be done as much as you like. Any offers are accepted. Including changing the interface and functionality when paired with Big Brother.
There is an idea to make a small HAL on C/C, which will hide all work with iron. And the logic and interface to implement in the script language, such as LUA or Squirrel. For the latter, it is easy to screw the BB-debugger, based on any transport. Debauching like a royal right out of Visual Studio. With script logic customization of firmware will become trivial, without the risk of anything to ditch a banal mistake, for example hanging SHIM.
The issue of the tin pump (Desolder) is still open, I do not have such iron. Without the ability to test - I do not see the point of implementing it. But on his pins you could hang something hardware I2C-no (on the feet of EEPROM hardware I2C is not).
About the adapter's bluetooth is not all smooth - UART pins are not taken anywhere, and not everyone will be able to fall directly to the feet of the processor.
In order not to be flooded here, I can make a post in Yu, for discussion by all interested parties.
So yes, at maximum temperatures for cheap stings a little scary. :)
Brought myself and to order, until no one complained
Video Video 2
JBC 2HEX-A Controller
but they have their own development
drive.google.com/open?id=1NZ3IcKBvDoONZ4i4Oxm305XMdgmKMCgX
платка копия оригинала)))
If there was already that sorori :)
SSD1306 OLED
For example, take 120k and 130k with 5% tolerance from a bunch choose those that in total will give 249k ...
Sh1106 needs an I2C tire...
took such a station,
I did a little bit of work, then turned off the screen.
switched back when I got off the battery (the battery didn't work)
It worked a little bit again.
and the moustache, now I have a rich station with sound control
Where to look/dig and whether it's worth it
on the screen goes 3v, through the control channels something dances too up to 3V. The wake tells us that the feet of the stm are connected to the norms up to the screen
they're no longer on sale since the summer
You can copy the name of the lot in Chinese from your purchases and paste it here, right?
they are the same in width, there is no place for the length?
Check
request activation, use keigen
All links in review
Above the soldering iron-out TS80
https://www.banggood.com/ru/MINI-TS80-Digital-OLED-USB-Type-C-Programable-Soldering-Iron-Station-Solder-Tool-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-1330060.html
I saw it in reviews a couple of months ago, but even like a bed and a set, but, it is already on the off site miniware
www.miniware.com.cn/product/ts80-soldering-iron-main-2/
P.s. in the solder can apply any key suitable for current and tension, hinged gag
P.P.S. R-Channel, managed by low potential on shutters
TPC8107 — MOSFET, P-channel, Lithium Ion Battery, Notebook PC, Portable Equipment, 30V, 13A, SOP-8
Lithium Ion Battery Applications
Notebook PC Applications
Portable Equipment Applications
for example here
dalincom.ru/goods-8166.html
Got a new controller from China, and he asks for code. The seller is freezing.
I had a similar situation,I dropped the v3.0 controller on the factory settings and after the restart it requested the code
Writing to a seller, send a screenshot/photo with the code on the display and demand a response combination
If only received, and sold is frozen - open the dispute, the goods are not working, let him send a new or return the money
and you don't have to bother, find/buy a software programr for STM32 and stitch firmware from v2.0, links to firmware and keigen are in this review.
I've already done mine and my head doesn't hurt.
If you don't, write me a face
2.1S has a different display.
Don't bother, the firmware is exactly the same functionally
Pen and sting for unisolder controller tests, for a couple of months. At the end of the tests, the unisolder test controller will be returned as a gift.
forward at your expense.
P.S. Ukraine. If you are interested in writing in person...
I also still write about activation of the soldering station.
The problem is that those who honestly bought a soldering station, sometimes takes out EEPROM and the station ceases to function and asks for activation. Or if you try to re-ask from 2.09 to 2.12, the activation window will appear again.
For those who honestly purchased the activated soldering station and got into the situation that the soldering station can no longer be used and it again requires activation now there are 6 firmware (all versions 2.12)
1. 2.1S non-activation display 1.3 (NA mod).
2. 2.1S non-activation, display 1.3, inverted encoder (NAE mod).
3. 2.0 Non-Activation Display 0.96.
4. 2.0 Non-activation, 0.96 display, inverted encoder.
5. 2.0 Non-Activation Display 1.3.
6. 2.0 Non-activation, 1.3 display, inverted encoder.
This version allows you to work with a faulty EEPROM, but the settings will not be saved.
P.S. Dekus is my nickname on the radio.
Entering codes doesn't solve the problem.
Occasionally the station starts and then already works normally until the moment of disconnection.
Can you share a non-activation firmware for 2.1S?
I understand that.
But at least I could use the station if there was a firmware with "unscored activation."
PS: Firmware 2.12 has already been stitched.
If I were on my side, I wouldn't ask questions about the firmware with the activation checked turned off.
I had to uncover an old soldering iron so far. :(
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